Surfing Waves

This is definitely not the best wave I have ridden, I have ridden waves longer and smoother than this. But it is the best ever recorded with my Gopro from the viewpoint of the surfboard nose.

I am just not too sure If I am going doing the line here? I felt I was and it looks to me the same from this clip. But it also kinda seems I was somewhere between going straight to shore and being parallel to the wave(go down the line). But I think I happened to go the right direction as the the white water is breaking behind me.

I know it doesnt look anywhere close to advanced so plz be gentle.

It's pretty hard to tell from that camera angle unfortunately; best I can say is 'probably' as the wave is breaking and you are staying in unbroken water

Yes, you are. Until there was no more face left. You could photo shop out the background and your body, and it would still be easy to see you are going down the line in TRIM.

You can the water shearing off your outside rail ( magenta ). Also you can see the water coming off the inside rail (green).

Notice that the inside rails spray is moving back away from the nose.

Now the water in ONLY shearing off the outside rail and the waves face is wrapping over the inside rail. Sure sign that you are going down the line.

That is until you smack the "flats" and water comes up from both rails.

Styling! Must have felt pretty great. Only one suggestion: don't forget to breathe when paddling, you aren't underwater!

kookextraordinaire wrote:Styling! Must have felt pretty great. Only one suggestion: don't forget to breathe when paddling, you aren't underwater!

I find easier to spring when I hold the breath

waikikikichan wrote:Yes, you are. Until there was no more face left. You could photo shop out the background and your body, and it would still be easy to see you are going down the line in TRIM.

Screen Shot 2016-11-25 at 4.48.33 PM.png

You can the water shearing off your outside rail ( magenta ). Also you can see the water coming off the inside rail (green).

Screen Shot 2016-11-25 at 4.48.41 PM.png

Notice that the inside rails spray is moving back away from the nose.

Screen Shot 2016-11-25 at 4.48.46 PM.png

Now the water in ONLY shearing off the outside rail and the waves face is wrapping over the inside rail. Sure sign that you are going down the line.

Screen Shot 2016-11-25 at 4.50.12 PM.png

That is until you smack the "flats" and water comes up from both rails.

Thanks for this comprehensive reply and your video analysis is amazing as always.

Then now I probably can start working on my back-side down-the-line surfing