Surfing Waves

Hi Guys,

I'm riding very long board 10 feet and 23 inches wide. Everybody tells me that this board is crap (it's made by BicSurf) , but I can catch a glimpse of wave and ride. But I do have some problems with turning this beast. I know I have to go back to the tail and stomp the back leg, but still when I finish my cutback wave is almost over. I've also have a feeling that I always trim my position at the bottom of the wave and I can't get good speed.

Can you look at these videos and give me some advices about my stance, feet and arm positioning and so on. I still think I can get more from that board and do some sick turns.









Your advice is much appreciated.

Amongst the mod at Mona Vale eh! First rule ride what you want to ride and serves you best! Big BIC does it need to be that big? What do you weigh? Catching waves easily great, can you move the centre fin forward in its box? Further forward looser to turn!

A couple of wave you stall the board by remaining too far back after your pop up and bottom turn!
You need to be able to shift your position to gain and change speed, in all you shop you basically assume your position and just stay static and lean turn
If you had laid that first turn easily and then transferred weight forward by a controlled step you would have accelerated past the first dropping section.
There is a sweet spot on all longboards that is the " trim" spot where the board will,accelerate to wave speed continually. Around 2/3 of the way forward.
Look to generating speed in everything you do especially turning learn to loose speed and stability goes too.

I know the wave and on some days it will throw good nose riding section, forward is fun, learn to cross step walk and avoid the duck shuffle.
Long needs smooth not jerky and being able to change gear by your movements.

Post more we'll help

Thanks Jaffa. My current fin position is in the middle of the box, I will try to move it more forward. I don't want to buy another longboard, just because I've got that Big BIC, may be at some point I will start looking for more High Performance log. I still think that I haven't overgrow my board.

My weight is 84kg. I have real issues with cross-stepping, I'm always telling myself - crosstep! but when I walk I still shuffle especially going back. I hope my wife will film me a little bit more, I think I've already improved a bit since last video.

The rocks near the pool give you a slight elevated point but the breaking wave shields the view a little.
The beach angle , not straight in but diagonally in from where your wife is shooting now will display your skills a little better!

The basics are are there, , more summer surfing prescribed stay on the BIC .......... put some drive in your turns rather than lean them.

I had trouble turning a 8'6 and then there's this guy!
Seems like you're doing it right, take Jaffas advice he knows a lot about logs, by the way how do you even transport that thing I have trouble travelling with a 6'6 in a car!

I have a 7'9" Bic, probably easier to turn than yours, but as I was working to improve my skills I first learned that I need to start turning the board even before I pop-up. I don't mean just angling my take-off, but also look down the line, and then shift my body as I pop up, with hands,arms, feet hips, whatnot, in the direction I want to go. Eventually you'll be able to pop up and turn the board at the same time. Just focus towards the direction you want to go and your body will find ways to move the board.

icetime wrote:I had trouble turning a 8'6 and then there's this guy!
Seems like you're doing it right, take Jaffas advice he knows a lot about logs, by the way how do you even transport that thing I have trouble travelling with a 6'6 in a car!

Roof Racks. This board is so heavy, once I've forgotten to tie it up to roof racks and when I get home, board was still there

Ahaha. Someone is looking out for you!

Second video, probably the hardest to see but doesn't look bad....sit inside (deep enough that you aren't in the way of riders....paddle toward the whitewater after a ride) and watch better surfers than you, watch how they angle their boards, how they can turn as part of the process of the pop up....look where you want to go as you pop up and good things will happen.....I agree with what has been said; esp. on moving around.....watch this and see how it's done (as importantly, when it's done)....

First let me say your problem is that you're an EXTREME surfer. Not as in risk taker or daredevil, but you go from leaning one way to the extreme other way. You go from full nose down to extreme wheelies. Try to smooth out your movements and don't "try" so hard.
1st video:
1) :02 your Front hand goes back and out. The front hand should point in the direction you want to go, which is forward and up.

2) Driving only down into a collapsing section. You could try to poke the nose into it or drive up onto it to have the energy redirect you.

3) You swing your Back hand up to counter your falling back, since you're leaning not turning. And probably because of a closed stance and locked Front arm to the body.

4) Neat little hand jam with the Back hand into the face of the wave to turn. Seems to work well for you, you should do it on the early part of the wave, not just the very end.

2nd video : Looked great, nice setting of the rail and trim. It's also great you always end up on your board at the end of your wave. It a good habit to learn that a lot of beginners don't follow.

3rd video:
1) Lots of spray on the paddle. Better to go deeper with your arm strokes. About :04 you switch from bilateral paddling to Unilateral paddle. Try staying with the Bilateral the whole time. and move up your body 1cm. on the board.
2) :07 Front hand goes Back. Torso hinges forward with the head way past the inside rail. Nose of the board too near the surface of the water.

3) Front hand goes dead and locks to the thigh. Better if it swung forward. Stopping that motion is like stopping the motion when riding a swing.

4) :09 Drop / Catch your outside rail which kills your speed. Back hand swings up over the head to catch your body from falling backwards.


I suspect your front toes are point to 9 o'clock. Try having them more at 10-11 o'clock. ( and you might be checking where your feet are once you pop up. )

4th video:
1) :04 big time pearling of the nose. ( too straight of a take off - square peg in round hole ).

2) Because of the pearl, you stomp on the tail to bring the nose up ( too much ).
Again extreme front to back. Learn more about how a wave breaks and the motion of the ocean.

3) Front hand locks to the body. Quick tiny step / Shuffle is made to get the board planing again.

another easy way to get up on the wave, once you are riding down the line ... simply raise your arms. The upward momentum will unload your board and send it towards the top of the wave.
The pros here can comment more on the maneuver.

Thanks guys for your feedback, especailly Waikikikichan. What should I do to focus on the proper technique? Should I stop leaning completely and just squat more into turns? I'm struggling with right cross-stepping as well, as I can't put my back foot in front of the foot without loosing the trim of my board.

KitesurferAU,
that's neat you have videos like the ones you shared above. Such a beautiful day, too. That is a big board!
Keep the stoke!
billie

KitesurferAU wrote:What should I do to focus on the proper technique?

Keep surfing. Keep asking questions on this forum. Surf with people better than you. Don't try so hard. Listen to the wave.

KitesurferAU wrote:Should I stop leaning completely and just squat more into turns?

Than you'll be in the dreaded "Poo" stance. Find the happy medium.

KitesurferAU wrote:I'm struggling with right cross-stepping as well, as I can't put my back foot in front of the foot without loosing the trim of my board.

Cross-stepping is "sort of" an advanced technique. Get solid on the basic techniques ( paddling, take-off, stance, bottom turn, and trim ) before starting to walk. Right now you "rock the boat" too much to even consider cross-stepping.

Just found more videos from the last year, this is now backhand.

That pretty much a standard ride that Collaroy offers, pretty fat out on the shoulder and not much meat in the slightly steeper section there was no top of the wave to go to.
You actually followed the line that would enable you to ride the wave.

A step forward might have offered a little more speed but you would have had to back off to set a turn, handled pretty well even a change of direction in the shorebreak

Almost 10 months passed since this post. I reckon I've transitioned to Intermediate status. I'm still having problems going to the lip, but at least I understand what I need to do to get there.

Now I'm getting a take-off rush and always forget about proper techniques (compress/decompress, open palm, look, rotate shoulders, etc.)

Here is a picture of me from Maldives. Waves were not big but good for my beginner level.