Surfing Waves

I had an easy swim last time after my leash broke, but I was thinking how if there is big white water rushing towards you?

Should you try accelerate to catch it and try bodysurf it to the shore or should you dive under it to stay out of trouble?

I never tried bodysurfing so I don't know if that would work..

That is a depends question. Sand bottom and if you are standing you can try a dive catch by timing your dive shallow parallel to the water in front to match the waves speed, hands out in front ,head down between your arms in dive position, if you get it right you are heading shoreward, you can then lift you head to breath and kick to give some speed. Rocky shoreline probably better to dive under the wave outwards. The crucifix exit can be valid if you just want to get pushed to shore, you will be tumbled but on the beach recovering?

Best learning get a pair of bodyboarding fins , go swimming in moderate surf and practice catching waves, learn tumble turn pull outs . Learn to go across the wave have fun, I reckon bodysurfing is an essential skill for all surfers ( too often neglected ) , it could save your life!

Tudeo wrote:I had an easy swim last time after my leash broke, but I was thinking how if there is big white water rushing towards you?

Should you try accelerate to catch it and try bodysurf it to the shore or should you dive under it to stay out of trouble?

I never tried bodysurfing so I don't know if that would work..

When I had to go through lifeguard training as a kid they taught us the "rest stroke". It looks like they call it the "elementary backstroke" these days. Anyway, it's an incredibly useful swimming stroke to know because it allows you to rest and watch the waves as you swim back to shore. I used it once in super heavy surf and it really helped me calm down, rest, and get back to shore. The great thing about it is that you don't turn your back to the waves so you can see when a monster wall is coming at you. It also allows you to breathe uninterrupted. It truly is a survival stroke in my opinion. I think every surfer should learn it. Just my two cents.

Good long distance open water stroke to know....


Definitely practice body surfing....can turn and ride the wave and save yourself some effort....also helps to get in through a heavy shore break....however swimming in from Batu Bolong you're not going to get too much help from that whitewater or the weak inside reforms....good thing there is that you will NEVER be alone....

sometimes you can catch the wave particularly if there is a reforming wall at the bottom of it. Otherwise whitewater is your friend when you want to get to the shore. If you don't catch it it will push you in further. So what do do depends on where you are and how big the whitewater is but mostly I just let the whitewater push me in. I may not even swim at all till I get in to an area where the whitewater is less intimidating and save my breath for the hold downs. Not that I do that these days but that is what I used to do long ago.

Thanks guys! Some great advice here!

Bodysurfing would certainly be a great training to stay safe, I would love to try that one day.

I wish you all great surfing and strong leashes!