by oldmansurfer » Thu Jul 14, 2016 7:19 am
I go to a beach near my home and ride whatever is there. Sometimes the only waves there are is where they are doing lessons so I try to find a different peak to ride near the lessons. I think the surfers look at me surfing and think the instructor is keeping them off the good waves intentionally. They are paddling for waves and having a hard time catching them on their own but they see me catching waves right next to them and figure it has to be some gimmick. The instructors know I will leave after 30 minutes so coax them over to me around that time to let them try to catch the same waves. But basically their arms are too tired and they haven't the paddle power to catch waves even with their much larger boards. I have talked to a few. If they are catching waves and can't manage more than riding whitewater straight in they figure it's the boards fault or the instructor is lining them up in the wrong place. I think unrealistic expectations is the norm for beginners.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.