Surfing Waves

I'm starting from the right side of the screen, riding backside, so turning left from my perspective

Yesterday was pretty crowded and being morning the sunlight was obscuring some details, and I had a hard time finding myself going through the footage. I got this ride off the webcam, one one of the instances I took off from further inside. I am 99 % confident it's me



I think my stance is still not that great but I am controlling the wave a bit better. I plan to put on a a camera on the nose of my board, but last time I tried that the adhesive pad slipped right off as soon as it encountered water. I have actual surfing mounts now so I hope it will stick, but anyway it has to wait till I can surf without gloves.

Oh , make sure you thorough clean your nose so the mounts stick + if it is a GoPro also use the safety leash and mount.

Thanks Jaffa

I have the leash mount and everything. The camera is a "noPro", that is one of those clones with compatible accessories. Not a big deal if I lose it, and I have the sponge on it too.

I'm hoping the adhesive won't come off because my BIC board is plastic, that's the same board it came off the first time.

Hey!

I noticed you a looking down during your pop up. I would try to correct this sooner rather than later.
You should be looking down the line during your pop up.
Heres a good video explaining! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KbE-PPv1XU

good luck!

bagsnotdoingit wrote:You should be looking down the line during your pop up.

Thanks! That's one of those things I know I should do, but sometimes I forget to do When I don't forget to do it, I get a much more effective bottom turn and stay higher on the wave=more energy.

Not much of a wave but you were in the right place on the wave.

pmcaero wrote:When I don't forget to do it, I get a much more effective bottom turn and stay higher on the wave=more energy.

Staying high Does Not give more energy. Ebb and Flow - Resist and Relax

You should look at the rider going Right, bottom turn, three pumps and a off the lip attempt. Better use of rail work and better positioning. That's the type of wave you should go for.

waikikikichan wrote:[
Staying high Does Not give more energy.

Don't mean to correct anyone here on surfing items, but as a matter of physics, staying high means you have more potential energy.
Sure, you can say that sliding down the face quickly you get more mechanical energy (speed), but in my case that usually gets squandered as I end up in the flats. Even for a good surfer, an aggressive bottom turn is more wasteful than an angled glide, again simply because of the hydrodynamic forces at play, which I won't get into details now for fear of boring everyone

waikikikichan wrote:You should look at the rider going Right, bottom turn, three pumps and a off the lip attempt.

I'm sure some people would be able to pull that off on a Bic Minimal but for me this kind of vertical work will have to wait till I get back to the shortboard, hopefully by then a better surfer with all the hangups corrected.

pmcaero wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:[
Staying high Does Not give more energy.

Don't mean to correct anyone here on surfing items, but as a matter of physics, staying high means you have more potential energy.
Sure, you can say that sliding down the face quickly you get more mechanical energy (speed), but in my case that usually gets squandered as I end up in the flats. Even for a good surfer, an aggressive bottom turn is more wasteful than an angled glide, again simply because of the hydrodynamic forces at play, which I won't get into details now for fear of boring everyone

Read what you and I wrote, "STAYING" high. Yes, you can drive up the face from your bottom turn to get high on the face. But the wave is rolling and pitching, changing it's form. You can not just get up high and stay there and "expect speed". You need to not be stiff in your approach/mindset.

You end up in the flats because aren't utilizing the rails (and positioning on the wave) to their full potential. You aren't working with the wave. But it would be interesting to learn about your expertise on Laminar water flow and Hydrodynamics and how it effecting your surfing.

pmcaero wrote:

waikikikichan wrote:You should look at the rider going Right, bottom turn, three pumps and a off the lip attempt.

I'm sure some people would be able to pull that off on a Bic Minimal but for me this kind of vertical work will have to wait till I get back to the shortboard, hopefully by then a better surfer with all the hangups corrected.

You CAN. You don't need a shortboard to do that vertical work. Learning to do it now on Minimal, we make you stronger on "any" short board later. It is possible, you just don't believe yet.

waikikikichan wrote:But it would be interesting to learn about your expertise on Laminar water flow and Hydrodynamics and how it effecting your surfing.

I would think when you bottom turn you get some separation , maybe even cavitation effects on the submerged rail towards the back / outside of the turn, which should cause extra pressure drag.
Of course, I haven't done a full analysis but in general sharp changes in direction though flow deflection require extra energy in any medium, causing you to lose speed.

I know I'm not supposed to be static, but even at this stage I've noticed how much better I can ride backside if I turn the board down the line high up, that is, early.

waikikikichan wrote:
You CAN. You don't need a shortboard to do that vertical work. Learning to do it now on Minimal, we make you stronger on "any" short board later. It is possible, you just don't believe yet.

Now I'm pumped. Hope to try it out next time we get some decent waves.

The way that a bottom turn works is not simple fluid dynamics, It involves shifting weight by leaning and crouching and extending legs. It's way more complex than just the interface between the board and the wave.

Over analyzing is what I would say...... My suggestion is to spend the time you are analyzing to find a quality wave or drive someone with better conditions. The conditions yield nothing more than barely pushing a rider. The surfer going right did as much as one could do which was a pump or two and wave fizzles out. Seriously, save the analytics for work and go find a wave that you can actually surf -- as it is, those conditions are simply barely surfable.

Surf Hound wrote: those conditions are simply barely surfable.

There were some better waves...but I couldn't find myself on the webcam. I don't think it'll get better overall till fall.

oldmansurfer wrote: It's way more complex than just the interface between the board and the wave.

I find it fascinating. I've done a fair bit of Aerodynamics, but this is way more complex.

pmcaero wrote:I would think when you bottom turn you get some separation , maybe even cavitation effects on the submerged rail towards the back / outside of the turn, which should cause extra pressure drag.

Yes, and that resistance, if done at the right time and place, sends the board forward. Just as with physics with drawing back an arrow on a bow, there is first resistance and then a release.

You will learn in time that surfing has a lot of OPPOSITES. They may not make sense to your "physics", Hydrodynamics and laminar water flow charts. But this is Surfing, where we're dealing with Man, Machine and Mother nature.
To go far to the Right, you have to go further Left first
To go more Up, you first have to go more Down
To walk Forward to the nose, you first have to go Back
and...........
Sometimes to go Faster, you first have to Slow down.

Feel sorry for you UK surfers if there is that many people on waves like that!

waikikikichan wrote: But this is Surfing, where we're dealing with Man, Machine and Mother nature.
To go far to the Right, you have to go further Left first
To go more Up, you first have to go more Down
To walk Forward to the nose, you first have to go Back
and...........
Sometimes to go Faster, you first have to Slow down.

This is poetry !