Surfing Waves

Hey guys,

I don't know if you ever felt like you were learning, improving and then reached a point where you just feel a little "stuck".

When I was absolutely starting, I had all the beginner issues: lack of balance paddling and sitting, bad wave reading, poped up before catching the wave, and so on. But as I surfed, I could see those problems going away and myself improving. Getting to paddle better, duck dive better (still need some work here), balance better, read waves better, catching most waves I paddle for and poping up well. I could see all those steps, from the first time I could get up and go straight, to the first bottom turn, and so on.

Now it's about to make an year I started (of course the first 2-3 months were the ones I was more active. During the year I would go 2-4 days a month), and I can't really see those steps of improvement. I wanted to be able to make more of a wave, make it last more, have more control of speed, maybe start snaping and making cutbacks. I eventually get a better wave, but I still don't feel consistency.

Maybe it's normal at this stage, to not be able to see the improvements even though they are there. Or maybe I get to surf a better wave when the wave gives me an easier line to ride. Perhaps it's just a place in the learning curve that seems longer than the rest. I'm not sure, but was curious if any of you have felt this way at some point?

Hi IanCaio

I started almost 4 years ago, surf in the weekends and I guess i'm older than you.
I dont exactly feel stuck, but I always have the need to do more, to add something.

But I also believe it's a matter of time. Riding time. I think your brain need time to process all the things happening (both time to process and time doing stuff..). When you get enough of that, than one day things just click. But with surfin things go slow becuase you can only ride a bit.. that bit is close to zero when you start, and it increases as you get better, and you get better because it increases..

One thing that works for me is being focused on somethign specific I want to achieve. I have a gopro so I can see what I do back at home and identify my mistakes. Now I want to be able to do some seriuos carving (with a longboard). I can cut back both side but it takes time. I want to turn fast. I can see that I'm not putting my back foot on the fins and I dig the rails if I push..
I don't feel stuck. I just need some nice waves and to focus on it for a second before paddling..

S wind is coming today in SE Queensland.. maybe tomorrow is that day to make it happen!! can't wait!

I think one you get past being a total beginner improvements come in waves. You cruiise along not seeming to get any better then you get something, understand something, learn how to do something and you feel like you improved a lot. Then you will go back to cruising along and not feeling like you are learning. I think in your case it may be difficult because you can't get to the ocean regularly.

How old and heavy are you? For someone who's been surfing only a year (and just 2-4 times a month on top of that), your quiver potentially looks very 'high performance'.

What are the other dimensions of your boards?

Hey guys, sorry it took a while for me to reply, my computer has been having a hard time staying useable..

312T4,
I guess having some goals might help, usually I'm more like improvising in the surf. And I guess it makes sense that it feels you're doing it wrong until it 'clicks' and you nail it. Having a camera to see what I'm doing would help a lot, it's on my wish list (just not sure for how long ).

Oldmansurfer,
Hopefuly next year I'll have more time surfing. At least so far I didn't feel like walking backwards, when I'm surfing it feels like I'm where I last stoped.

Lebowski,
I'm 22 years old, and weight about 68kg. I only have those 2 boards (the 6'0" and the 6'1") and I agree they are a little high performance. It's just it was a little unpractical for me to have a longboard (most were more expensive and I need to take a bus to the break, can't imagine how I would take a 9ft board there). Maybe next year I'll have the opportunity to try one, I will be living closer to a break (could go with a bike) and I guess there are some surf schools that might rent me one.

Hi Ian,
Yes, I get stuck along the way with surfing improvements. It's normal. I also get stuck along the way with guitar playing, motorcycling, mathematics, welding, and other things, too.
billie

I don't think you need a longboard necessarily, but maybe if you could borrow/rent something like a 6'6 x 20 x 2 1/2 or something it might give you a boost. It should still fit on the bus too.

Hey guys, again sorry for the delay. My computer is now completely screwed. Trying to get it working again!

Billie,
Guess it's part of learning after all, won't give up anyways, just looking forward to having more time to work on things
So how are things going there mate?

Lebowski,
I'll see if I can find anything close to those measures. I've been surfing those shorter boards for a while, but I'm open minded and even excited about trying some other types of boards, like longer or bigger volume boards. Guess the more you diversify, the more you learn and the more you get to ride different ways.