Ready to transition from white water to tubes.

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

Read this in an article -

" -- if you're lucky -- the air ejected from the collapsing tube propels you out into the open, to applause and glory!"

is that true? if so, now i understand... we've had some nice small/medium barreling tubes for a while here at the beach breaks. not exactly sure what i was supposed to do with them, so i'd just drop in on them from behind, or ride off the very side for a little.

(the title is a joke)

[Big H]

Paddle into one just to see what happens....

[jaffa1949]

Step 1 get your crowd ready on the beach . Coach them to applaud and give you glory!
Step 2 forget about dropping in from behind, all white water = no applause , no tube?
Step 3 learn to airdrop into tube, the the bigger it is the easier it gets , big enough to not get your hair wet.(Kelly uses silicon water repellent gel to lessen water friction on his head when he gets deep.
Step 4 learn the simple stall slow up to let the barrel cover you, but you need to learn to be able to cease the stall and regain speed. Type hand stalls work.
Step 5 learn the Aussie invented pig dog! Copied from secret kneeboard techniques.
Step 6 Do not develop a big head from the applause and glory, it slows down tube time due to air and water resistance.
Step7 learn the old technique of the head dip see a tube from the outside looking in!
(Please note swollen heads in this are a distinct hindrance)

Real way, learn to take steep drops by taking off on closeout but tubing waves, realise that you can do it learn to surf inside the wave until the wave decides you are finished. No jumping off your board if it gets critical!

[Big H]

Real way, learn to take steep drops by taking off on closeout but tubing waves, realise that you can do it learn to surf inside the wave until the wave decides you are finished. No jumping off your board if it gets critical!

Yeah...working on it....funny how working on it means getting worked......

[waikikikichan]

Well you better get your board situation sorted out first. Oh, and don't think you can't get "tubed" on a longboard in small waves.

aIMG_9171.JPG (45.68 KiB) Viewed 890 times

aIMG_9172.JPG (55.96 KiB) Viewed 890 times

aIMG_9173.JPG (48.83 KiB) Viewed 890 times

Any guess where this wave is ?

[jaffa1949]

The head dip methodology.

Memo to self , select rounder waves!

[Big H]

Any guess where this wave is ?

I will guess because I want to know the answer....I will say Hawaii somewhere though it looks like here except it's a right.

[oldmansurfer]

I think for now you can forget about " -- if you're lucky -- the air ejected from the collapsing tube propels you out into the open, to applause and glory!" That isn't likely to happen to you anytime soon. It's much more likely you will get hit by the lip and break your board or wipeout and get draged back up the wave over the falls and onto the reef. But there is a lot of force when a wave breaks and with some wave shapes the tube collapses in a way that forces air out of the opening. Certain breaks are much more likely to do that. On bigger waves the force is so great it may actually blow you right off your board so instead of coming out of the tube your board stays in and you fly out and bodysurf or get pounded. The force of the spray can be painful on your unprotected skin.

Probably the most important thing in getting tubed besides being able to take a steep drop and knowing where to takeoff is the wave itself. Some waves are better for getting tubed.

[waikikikichan]

Big-H, the photo was at Waikiki "Canoes" break right in front of the Duke Kahanamoku statue. The board is a 9'8" Carl Schaper / Bonga Perkins model by Boardworks.

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

around noon the beach break around here has been getting really hollow. like 3-4 foot tubes (the kind you see people crouch really low under). honestly, thinking about it, i'm not scared to try it, but that's just thinking about it. who knows how ill feel when im actually out there. ... if things dont look like they are going as planned, cant i just jump away from my board and into the bottom of the wave? like a duck dive? -skateboarding is kinda like that, when youre going for something big, and you know you arent going to land in mid-air, you can sort of take an escape route by jumping off away the board(also known as bailing) and it usually results in no injury.

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

when we had a huge swell around here... i saw a guy standing straight up under a huge one. watched it slam on him, i'm pretty sure he came out completely unscathed and i'm pretty sure he knew it was going to happen.

[dtc]

Tubing waves occur when the base of the wave slows quickly but the top keeps going and gets thrown a long way forward. So where the bottom of the ocean goes deep to shallow pretty suddenly.

The question for the learner is 'how shallow is it exactly'? Sometimes the nice tubes are occurring in pretty shallow water, meaning a higher risk of you mess up.

[oldmansurfer]

If you are talking about 3 to 4 foot faces then one of the things I do is to tuck into waves that are tubing but closing out and let the lip throw over me then turn into the wave away from the beach and lean into the wave and stand up at the same time. If I do it right I will come out through the back of the wave still standing. Generally speaking in the tube is one of the safer places to be. The worst place is under the throwing out lip. On bigger waves you are very likely to get swept up and over and into the bottom if you don't penetrate down through the bottom of the wave a bit but on a smaller wave I can often avoid that by landing flat parrallel to the beach and the bottom and rolling with the wave as it tries to suck me back up. Ideally if you are wanting to get tubed, a sand bottom is the best place to learn since small reef breaks are generally shallow. If you are jumping off your board into shallow water there is risk of hitting the bottom and being injured. Recently Stepahie Gilmore broke her leg doing that at a sand beach (bigger wave than you would be surfing). I do try to penetrate on bigger waves but am careful to quickly angle sideways so I don't go too deep and I don't try to penetrate on small or shallow waves as it is almost guaranteed to hit the bottom sooner or later.

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

they are pretty shallow. when its sucking up on the shore, the water is a little more than a foot high, maybe a little less. however, when it crashes, its around waist high, give or take. then the next one will be a little less shallow, and so forth until the set is over. then it lulls and another set comes in, repeats the process. its beach break, no rocks.

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

no doubt im going to hit the bottom sooner or later... i already do once or twice a session. especially during low tide (leaves some very suspicious brown streaks on my shorts).

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

local shaper says 400 for a custom shortboard/hybrid... 40 extra for some color. not bad. he's pretty well known and been doing it for 40 years.

[oldmansurfer]

One of the seeminly infinite skills of surfing is learning to wipeout safely. I seem to be pretty good at this. Recently I posted about a (minor) encounter with the bottom which was only worth mentioning because I almost never touch the bottom unintentionally.

Talk to the local shaper about what board to get. If he is really good he can make one just right for you.

[HurdyGurdyManOnAWave]

feel free to post a link to the post.

[jaffa1949]

The techniques are fairly simple if you have time to react. run to the nose and bog the inside rail into the face and grab outside rail and hang on and pop out the back as the tail breaks free and swings around ( Island pull out).
Do the same thing standing gloriously to applause ( standing island pull out)
If you are unable to do these, dive into the wave face as low and as safely as possible so as not to be sucked over!.
Finally try the take it like a rat method ride to the total end of what you are capable and see what happens! The wave can morph and open up any bailing means you don't allow that option to occur and you never learn to make the ongoing adjustments need to ride the tube.
A good tube has a constantly changing sweet spot that leads to being spat out ahead of the foamball.
A spot rarely visited in its entirety by the casual and inexperienced surfer.
90% of Uncle Jaffa's tube view is from head dips or occasionally a hand or board stall puts me in.
Sometimes I even make it out. I could probably count the the full throated tubes I have had on one hand .

[oldmansurfer]

feel free to post a link to the post.

I'lll see if this works https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4876&start=1840#p183232


https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4876&start=1840#p183425