Surfing Waves

Hi! I just transitioned from a 7'2" NSP to a 6'2" Firewire rental. I am fine paddling on it because it is wider, but I haven't popped up on it yet because the conditions were extremely choppy today.

I need advice when it comes to these conditions, because I don't know exactly how to duckdive yet on it; I know there are other techniques like the turtle roll and what not but I have issues getting past the choppy waves to the breaking ones, and am honestly super afraid of the huge, choppy, toppling waves. I don't want to get beaten down onto my board if I don't pop up quick enough...

Is it even safe to surf in? I hardly see any other surfers out when the conditions are choppy and I am kind of still new to this, too. I am constantly getting drug underwater and having waves break over top of me before I have even popped up. (FYI: I am surfing at New Smyrna Beach, FL.)

This brings me to another topic: popping up.
How quickly should I pop up in these conditions? Should I use the chicken leg pop-up since the board is a bit shorter? Also, how can I prevent pearling on a choppy wave? I always try to arch my back some to lift my weight off the front, but sometimes it takes too long and I end up and don't pop up quick enough, so the wave breaks over top of me... Ugh.

ANY tips on surfing in choppy conditions for a somewhat beginner on a 6'0" Firewire would be amazing.

Btw, it isn't just the board because I tried it out on the 7'2" and it was just as bad, if not worse because the board is larger.

Thanks in advance!

Start small and work your way up. Safety has to do with you and your skill set in the waves you are presented. I am sure I surf choppy stormy surf that you would never even go out in and I have fun in it. Popping up in choppy surf is all about being quick so work on popping up quicker. A one foot size change is huge and it's going to take some time for you to get used to it.

salty_sunkissed wrote:I need advice when it comes to these conditions, because I don't know exactly how to duckdive yet on it;

Then you shouldn't be on a shortboard. Nothing wrong with Turtle Rolls on a bigger board.

salty_sunkissed wrote:I hardly see any other surfers out when the conditions are choppy and I am kind of still new to this
How quickly should I pop up in these conditions? Should I use the chicken leg pop-up since the board is a bit shorter?

How should a batter swing at a Wild Pitch ? He doesn't. How should a batter swing at a Foul Ball. He doesn't. There's a reason why no one was out. They only wanted to swing ( surf ) at balls in the strike zone. There's a reason why there's long lines at good restaurants and no lines at terrible ones.

Salty sun kissed , you need to consider a number of important things that I would address to a 15 year old girl learning to surf.
How well can you swim? Has anyone taken you and explained how surf and rips and wave interact?

Going out in surf that is very choppy and difficult to manage is risky, especially if other surfers are not about.

You were just starting to get comfortable with your 7'2" and you want to keep jumping smaller!
Stop it get your skill and paddling and ocean reading improved. Then you will,be ready to go down in size!

Does anyone one with you to the surf?

I reread all your posts if you are surfing alone without someone being aware for you and being capable of properly looking out for you then the risks are great!

You can go shorter than most because of you weight age and all that , but please don't make it to hard for yourself

oldmansurfer wrote:Start small and work your way up. Safety has to do with you and your skill set in the waves you are presented. I am sure I surf choppy stormy surf that you would never even go out in and I have fun in it. Popping up in choppy surf is all about being quick so work on popping up quicker. A one foot size change is huge and it's going to take some time for you to get used to it.

Thank you for the advice! I definitely need to work on that pop up a lot!

You'll always get days where you just get beaten around by the ocean! It can teach you things though so as long as you're still having fun and treat it as a long learning curve. Please please please be safe though!! When there's more water moving around in heavier conditions, the rips get stronger. I admire your guts for being determined though! Brava

Im a newb as well, so I may get thrashed for this. I say go out as much as you can in the water. Just pulling images from my head of non-storm surf in fl and Im thinking you should be alright, But I don't know the break your at. If conditions are smaller and choppy I say charge on. It makes the good days that much more enjoyable. If nothing else you get the paddle experience. I grew up around the water and my comfort level is high because I know my limits. I also push those limits because it progresses my knowledge. If your unfamiliar then ask for help.
As far as no one being out there when you go, you have to know the beach your surfing. I body boarded a break here in PR that is amazing and usually crowded. I started showing up on days that it was barreling 8'+ and couldn't figure out why no one was out. So I charged on. The reason for no surfers was that at 8' and more there is only an inch of water over the sharp reef. fortunately I only lost skin on my knuckles that day. There is usually a reason people aren't out, look for beaches that have at least someone out.

Keep charging the shortboard if your dead set on it. Just plan to be frustrated and fight through it. today was my best day in a month on a shortboard. it all just came together for me.

I'm rambling, think first but don't be afraid to try.

Know your limits, know the break.