Surfing Waves

Hi All

I have been surfing for the last 5 years but very inconsistently. I have had many sets of lesson where the pop up has been easy and I don't have to think, but other times that it seems harder. Normally I do not go more than a couple months without surfing, but the last time I surfed was about 5 months ago. This time I went it was easy for me to paddle and get into waves, but it was like I lost my muscle memory for the correct pop up. I would always do something wrong; put one knee down, stand up too early, too late, etc.

Side note... I purchased an 8' more performance based longboard about a year ago as my first board (on accident the performance based part ) but it was really hard for me to paddle and get into waves and felt really unstable. Recently, I purchased a new 7' 7s super fish 3 and it feels a whole lot better than the clunky longboard in terms of getting into waves and paddling and turning and everything, and it even feels more balanced, overall it just feels better to ride. However, I am having difficulty popping up and I think that is based on the fact that I have not gone in a while. My instructor mentioned that the board was a little too short, but it really feels good to ride and easier than the longboard overall.

Any thoughts on how I can improve my pop up? I am going to start going 2x a week as of now now that sport seasons that I play are over. Will practicing on the board on land at home be a good thing?

And I have heard from so many other people that this is a good board for me and it feels good but am feeling apprehensive because of what the instructor said. Do you think I will be able to progress on it? It has a high volume and I have heard that volume matters more than length it the board just feels WAY better than any board I have ridden and I believe my main issue is the pop up that I feel I have lost somewhat in my lack of going surfing.

Super excited overall to be able to go consistantly as I just love being in the water no matter what

Progression with your surfing skills means going surfing regularly, without that it is likely you will backslide while not surfing and then have to work your way back to where you were before. Popping up can be practiced at home so that you can do it with the correct form. Picking when to popup takes practice so you have to surf for that.

Mate I'm always searching for ways to improve the pop up! One thing that's struck me is that it's so hard to define. However I've found d this video, hope the link works. Watch it over and over and over again between 2:59 and 3:02. It's amazing, just the angle we've all been looking for to give a clear idea how the body is weighted. Check the position of the arms!!!



I played this by tapping the play/pause button to get a slowmo freeze frame, must've watched it 5 times. Can't wait to get back out there and keep it in my head.

Wish I could show these few seconds to everyone who asks about the pop up, oh yeah, sick surfing and juicy cutbacks in there too!

A shortboard doesn't change your pop up technique (assuming you arent using your toes) but

- it will highlight flaws because the platform is less stable (so, for example, if you pop up and are leaning backwards, a LB might be stable enough to deal with it but a SB might fly out from under you); and

- you have less time to pop up, because you are catching the wave later (closer to when it is about to break)

But that 'just' means you need a fast correct pop up; there is no actual difference in how you achieve that between a shortboard and longboard.

I reckon, FWIW, that the biggest problem in pop ups is having hands too far forward. You need them around your lower ribs or even lower (I personally have my left hand at lower ribs and right hand around belly button - I am a natural footer; also old and decrepit. Youngsters may not need them quite that low).

also, you will see in the video jester posted that he rolls slightly away from his back foot just before he pops up - that occurs naturally if your right hand (for a natural footer) is slightly lower than your left; or if you are already looking down the wave on a front side ride (doesn't work for backside!). just opens your body up a bit. You can just to a slight shoulder roll to achieve it if you need

finally, pop up is a classic muscle memory activity. You get to the stage where you don't even think about how you pop up, your focus is entirely on 'when'. Your mind/body says 'now' and you are just up without even thinking. So the more practice you do, on land or even in white water the better - although (to repeat waikikichan's excellent point in another thread), practicing a bad habit just ingrains a bad habit. So make sure you are doing it right before you practice it!

This is all very helpful! I have been practicing the pop ups on a couple of pillows on the board and it feels that it is becoming more natural again. When I look at the video jester posted (thanks for that by the way, it got me thinking), what really struck me is that it really is not a "pop" but a much more graceful, flowing movement with not much force. I have been trying to focus on bringing my legs underneath my shoulders using the strength of my shoulders rather than vice versa (strength of legs). I have been working on hand placement as well. Hopefully the more I practice the more I wont have to think about popping up and just work on timing etc. Thanks again!