Surfing Waves

I read and article by Craig Braithwaite "Fear and The Art of Going Big" I felt it was well worth posting here for those among us who would desire to ride big waves.
Here is a link to Craig's site with the article, Craig also covers thoughts on the meaning of the Professional tour and other interests that may enhance your surfing experience.

http://outsidealley.com/2015/03/31/fear ... going-big/

I have his permission to link this article for you , enjoy Jaffa.
I am also giving a link to a feature by Stig Severinson who holds the world record for holding his breath under water 22 minutes , this video is about our beach and its stingrays
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FV-ssmLR844

I have listened to a lot of big wave surfers. They all have their own methods of preparing for big surf. For some of them it is all about getting their equipment in order. They feel that preparing for the worst is only going to make it more likely to happen. Others go through rigorous breath holding training and other training. It's very interesting how different they all are and yet with the same drive. I think it is likely for some of them they have never been scared out of their minds by the ocean. Panic is not conducive to big wave surfing....it makes you more likely to die. Big wave surfers are adrenalin junkies. The fear of the ocean releases adrenalin and allows them to perform at their very best instead of panicking. They are never scared out of their minds, they are scared into performing. But thanks for posting that Jaffa I love reading about big wave surfing stuff.

Love that thought uncle J of no fight or flight, you have to fight. I feel that when I start to get scared, nothing to do now but think your way out!! (the biggest I've faced so far is an 8' face so not exactly massive but it sure is to me fellas!)

The shape of Currumbin Rock at the Alley looks completely different from what you'd expect from above

I do the 2m radius thing too... whether I'm paddling for a big wave, or just know that I have a long way to paddle before I'm back where I need to be, just reach out and paddle towards a metre in front of the board. Forget about everything else.

I'm still a complete coward in genuinely big surf though