Surfing Waves

I am a surfer in Florida, and have been at it for about 2 years. In truth, i used to surf when i was a bit younger, but I joined the military and took a 15 year hiatus. I was doing pretty well once i restarted. I was using a 7'6" gun type board and was e joying the vibe. But then i got notified that i was being deployed to Afghanistan, and everything changed. My focus seemed to shift. Which sucks because i just built myself a new board 6'4" x 21" and planned on building more. The issue is this... i get out there and find myself trying too hard, and nolonger enjoying it. I don't even catch many waves anymore. I feel like its in my head, and i need to figure out a way around it. I paddle, and then seem too just fall of the back. I appreciate ya'll listening, and your thoughts would be hugely appreciated!!! BTW, i leave for Afghanistan in like 2 months.

Thanks,

Nate

Hey stay safe out there Nate, did you ever ride out on a 6'4 before it seemed to get harder?

Got any pics of your board, kinda cool you made your own!
Peace

One of the problems with not surfing regularly is you lose skill and conditioning over time. Next board should be longer and wider and you could try to swim or something like that to stay in shape or just go for a long board. Do you sitll have the 7'6 board?

Your running for the touch down BEFORE you even caught the ball. You're too amped. Choose the right wave, paddle to it, paddle to catch it, catch it first, then stand up.

I think it's a lot about the timing difference and take off spot difference between boards over a foot apart.

You're right Waikiki, I was trying to learn something new on the wkend and missed so many more waves than usual coz I was thinking hard about everything.. Let go and got the best ride of the day! SWEET

Here are a few snap shots. I still have the 7'6" and a 9'. I have had issues with the 7'6" as well. I usually paddle out 3 to 4 times a week.

I think you all may be right about timing. I feel it. I am so wired out there its rediculous. I used to go just to enjoy the day. Now it seems like i have complicated the hell out of it. I appreciate the info, anything else you got is always welcomed.

Well so you were surfing all along and then suddenly having problems? Maybe it is all in your head. Usually when people tell me they are falling off the back of the board I tell them to focus on leaning forward. It's usually a beginners thing, they are afraid of the drop so they lean away from it and the board shoots out in front of them. But somehow I didn't think this was what was happening with you....or was it?

You made that?!? Wow that is sweet..am I seeing a slight step to the deck around about the height of the fins or am I bleary-eyed coz of too much internetting again!

One more thing....as I was learning I found times initially where I was like pearling or wiping out on the takeoff on every wave. As I paddled I would be thinking "oh no I am going to wipeout on takeoff again" and then I would do it again. I think thoughts like that can be a self fullfilling prophecy where what you are thinking limits your ability to get past that point. You have to find a way to quiet your mind and concentrate on doing it right. Don't set yourself up to fail just concentrate on the wave and perform and ignore your self limiting thoughts. Tell yourself you will learn to do it right.

Nate,
thank you for serving the USA.

I'd spend a little time with the other 2 boards to re-calibrate yourself. Then go back to the newer board. Also, if it were me, I'd ask a more experienced surfer to come out with me to provide helpful pointers. In the past, I was fortunate enough to have such a buddy.

Billie

Nice, an Army Air Defence Artillery board. Looks like you've done a great job on it.
Just your surfing may not be ready for that length yet.

Given that you are going to a landlocked, severely non surf zone, I'd be doing everything in just appreciating the beach and lifestyle freedom.

Then if you are comfortable with the 9ft board, just go out and go surfing and remove your head from it as much as you can.
Let go and enjoy the second paragraph, chapter and verse I have written.
Been there, Vietnam was my service, never enjoyed the surf more!
Stay safe.

Im not sure about the step thing. It is level, i think the biggest problems i had building this one was the rails. They are a bit thicker than I originally intended. And the carbon fiber is not quite as right as it could be. I definately feel what ya'll are saying on the length. I really enjoy the other boards, but i built this smaller one to be a bit more poppy. Its funny, i could tell ya'll what mistakes to avoid in building a board, but cant figure out how to use it.

The Army is a pleasure, I love doing it. Nothing better than blowing stuff up. And for those of you that have served! Thanks for all you've done!

Thanks again everybody, i am heading back out tomorrow, i will let you know how it goes.

And ya'll rock by the way, I never expected to get so many responses.

You rock, too, Nate.
Keep the stoke

So i paddled out yesterday for the first since my last post and used my long board. The waves were probably 2' to 3' with a few chest high sets pushing through. At first i was having the same issues, and then i just slowed everything down. Once i did that i got some long rides. It is official, i am just trying to hard. Too much spinning through my head. Progress is progress though.

Yea, Nate!

Thanks for sharing the stoke. You reminded me that sometimes I just have to put my guitar down for a while. Then when I pick it up again, I play better. As Bits say, "Funnny, that!"

Hey Nate,

Even really good surfers (I'm not in this category) can hit a plateau or just get surfed out once in a while. I think the thing to do is rediscover the joys of the ocean and being pushed along by a wave. Surfing comes in many forms; it doesn't necessarily need to be on a surfboard.

Try taking a boogie board out for a session. They are wicked fun and sooo easy. Or, try a catchsurf beater.

Good luck overseas.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the good vibes. I cant wait to go back out and catch a few. And thanks for the positive wishes in regards to my deployment. I will be in touch!!!