Surfing Waves

Do you wonder which fin provides the most drive ? Is quads faster than trusters ? Is Epoxy better than P.U. ? What bottom contour is best for U.K. waves - Single full barrel or single-to-double ? Are Swallow tails less drag than Pin tails ?

All of those things don't matter without the rider. A computer has no potential on it's own with out data input from the user. Like in a lot of sports, most people know What to do. But the best know When are Where to do it. Take something as simple and forgotten as riding a swing in the play ground. The pump of the legs, arms ( and gut ) provided the momentum. Do it opposite way and the momentum stops. Same for pumping on a surfboard. ( Ups & Downs, rollercoasters, etc. ) Technique, timing and position are more important than raw power ( and much more important than the board or what it's made of ).



I have more photos here on my blog http://alohaki.jugem.jp/?PHPSESSID=749e ... 8d492460ff

** Warning - don't break the swing if you are over the maximum weight for the swing **

I think you are talking about weighting and unweighting or hops/jumps. Us surfers need to develop descriptive lingo that describes what we do better, but the swing is also about weighting and unweighting, never thought about it till now.

It really is hard to translate what surfers do. I try to teach/explain in lay mans terms. And everyone should be remember riding on a swing when they were kids. But yes, weighting and un-weighting, resist and relax, displace and replace, set and release. That is what it takes to make the surfboard move ( and the playground swing ) faster. My point for the post and blog is I noticed so many people trying to change the board ( fins, rocker, concave, materials ) when they should be upgrading their technique.

But upgrading my technique means the fault is with me. Upgrading my board means the fault was with my board. Which it clearly was. Right...

Haha, well clarified DTC. I get what youre saying though waikikiki, good analergy.

I've played around with fins recently and they made a huge difference to how easily I can find that sweet spot of weighing and unweighting. The bigger fins with more drive allowed me to load more energy in to the turn and release it more slowly (more control and longer arc) whereas my smaller fins with more release meant I had to change my spring rates and speed up my loading / unloading.
I also found running a thumb tail with the right quad set up meant that I could help keep up my speed while the rounded tail kept my turns flowing and the smaller fins gave me release to cut back down the wave face.

I consciously think of trying to load and unload my weight but the board set up also helps for my ability while I'm still learning.
I would love to get some footage and show you so that you can give me further pointers!

That is so awesome the stoke you have for improving your surfing. I believe the most growth happens between 3 to 6 years. The first 3 years is just learning the basics, the rules and trying not to kill or be killed by other surfers.

I probably have more fins in my collection than you. 3 of those clear storage containers filled to the brim. I too love experimenting with different configurations. I tend to like Twin-stabi. But would go with a single fin rather than 2+1 if I had the choice. But remember, it has more to do with the INDIAN than it does with the ARROW.

You have been posting good questions. I am sure everyone enjoys hearing that you are improving and enjoying riding waves more.

If you can, please post a picture of the deck of your board. It tells a lot of how your surfing is, even without photos of you riding it.

Benjl is a rapidly improving frother and really has been bitten by the stokebug.

Thanks guys! I am a little hesitant to say that I counted how many different boards I've owned and sold this year and it came to 13..! Curreny have 5 on hand.. Haha. I guess the cool thing for me is that I have been able to successfully use all of them and find the differences in each and how that works with my surfing and how it compares to my other or previous boards. It's also cool for me that in less than a year I've gone from playing in the white wash and seeing all the good guys out the back to now being one of those guys out the back and making the wave drops etc. It will be interesting to see what you can tell me about my deck of the board- I'll post up some pics soon! I'm only 66kg so the deck looks unblemished haha.

I also just purchased an 8'0 mini long board to try expanding my surfing skills but will post something on that shortly. I think the middle fin they gave me is from a SUP or something as it looks huge and doesn't fit properly (can't slide fully forward in the fin box).

Ps last thing Jaffa, I got my gf to get me that surfing book that u reviewed for Xmas!! Can't wait for it arrive!
Cheers guys

Hey Waikiki

Here's my board deck- this is the board I brought in bali a couple of months ago and is the only board I've had since new for a level assessment?

Cheers

The board is epoxy, 6'2 x 19.5 x 2.5 and I would estimate about 34.5L.

It's also strongly glasses with 12oz on too and 10oz on the bottom. I was actually thinking about selling it and just keeping my thumb tail quad 6'3 with a little more rocker as the bali board almost seems too stiff and slappy on the waves the bigger I get. I probably don't weigh enough to make it flex properly on bigger waves.

Let me know what my deck says about my surfing?

Cheers!

Being that it's glassed so strong, there's not much deck impressions from you heels. Unless you just put on new wax. Are you a Goofy-footer ?

It's got the same base coat of wax since I first got it and I've just topped it up / combed it before each ride.

I'm normal stance- when I first started surfing I found it much easier to surf on my natural side but for the last 4-5 months my backside has become greatly better than my front side. I'm
More stable, agile, faster and more maneuverable on my backside now :s
Why's that?

benjl wrote: my backside has become greatly better than my front side. I'm More stable, agile, faster and more maneuverable on my backside now :s
Why's that?

I used to find the same thing (then I moved to the Gold Coast and have barely seen a left since...)
The reason for me, and a lot of people, is that going backside forces you to turn your shoulders and weight your front foot, in particular on the heel. The leading arm tends to be more extended too.
All this drives the board forward, and locks it into the wave.

Do you find that you ride slightly higher on the wave on your backside? If so, that's a good indication that that's what's going on.

To get this on the face on your frontside, just translate the action into more weight on the front foot, a bit more on the toes, and drive forward with your leading arm.

Yeah I think you're quite right- I do tend to take a tighter turn and higher line on my back hand side and then cut down and up the wave from there. I can also now get enough speed on my backhand side to get air off the wave whereas I haven't been able to on my fronthand yet.

I've hAd a couple of lefts recently that have started to bring back my game
On that side but I need to work on it more and get better rotation and drive