Surfing Waves

Sharing something that really helped me, I hope it helps!

I was pearling big time when I first started out.

THE BIGGEST thing that eliminated this: Finding the pivot point on the board.

I literally spray painted a black mark across the pivot point of the board.

Since then, as long as my front foot is on this line, I do not pearl. The power of physics I guess...haha

(To find the pivot point, place the board on a vertical "narrow post". Move the board forward or back to find where it balances on it's own.)

I'm not sure that this is good advice.

Hi Lebowski,

Fair enough, however, it really works....


FYI Correction - I mean a HORIZONTAL post, like a hand rail.
Then place the board perpendicular to it.
(and obviously you re not on the board at this time.)

I like you signature line. I used to paipo board and you can move your weight around a little but standing up you can move your weight around a lot because you can flex and extend your legs and lean this way or that way. As far as the post goes, I don't know if what you say would work for everyone but if it works for you great. I never really had much of a pearling problem. When I first learned I knew it would be an issue and when I relearned after quitting for a while, I knew it would be an issue but it really never was much of an issue since I know lots of ways to keep the nose of my board above water. That said I still pearl once in a while mostly when the board loses contact with the water.

Reduce pearling by 99.9% by adjusting where you stand ? Most of the time, the nose digging under the water happens WAY BEFORE you even release your hands from the deck and get to your feet. Maybe you are giving advice on bottom turning so you don't plow into the flats ?
The thing I always do not recommend is Marks ( balled up wax ) or Lines ( paint or tape ) to show where you should be. Surfing like the waves are ever changing. Your balance point system is for when the board is static, horizontal and not moving. How you feel and strength is way difference when you first get in then 3 hours later. Tides affect the speed and timing of the breaking lip. I see beginners constantly look down to check their mark before beginning to paddle for a wave. Some beginners look down after they stood up to check where their foot is. That is very bad and causes more harm than good. Eyes should be up and looking to the future.
Lastly, Pearling is Good. Pearling means you over caught the wave. At least your board is is beginning to travel with the wave. I would rather have a student pearl than constantly miss a wave. Pearling is easier to correct. People fear the pearl and stare at the nose to see water flowing over it. Then they tense up and do the death grip. Hmmm, aren't you suppose to be paddling to provide momentum ? Water will flow over the nose for a split second, but you have to trust that the nose will pop out again as the wave steepens up. Staring at the nose doesn't allow you to look down the line. Your fear is causing you to not be loose and agile. The more you try to prevent pearling, the more you'll probably will pearl. Embrace your fear, embrace the pearl. Pearling is good.

I did some surf instructing for a while. One of the main things I noticed with beginners having pearling problems, is that they try to counter this by laying further back on the board. This only made the problem worse, as when they were paddling they were pushing water, meaning they'd catch the wave later when it's super critical. This would then result in the inevitable pearl.

The answer for a lot of them was to move forwards on the board to give them more paddle speed, start paddling earlier and for longer to get the board up to speed. They would then catch the wave earlier when it's less steep.