by jasedrummer » Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:28 pm
Hi...I also had a surfing accident similar to yours in my first year of surfing.....I was trying to catch an unbroken wave, pearled, got held under for what seemed like forever. When I surfaced I was nearer the shore than my board whci just happened to catch another wave without me and launched into the side of my head right next to my eye. Hurt like hell and there was tons of blood everywhere.....end result was a trip to A&E, 6 stitches and a black eye.
On returning to surf after healing the first thing I did was ditch the board I had....it was an epoxy minimal which was heavy and absolutely unbreakable. Switched to a fibreglassed minimal which was a lot lighter and also damages a lot easier than you do.
Like yourself I did suffer a lack of confidence and it took me some time to get it back......the things I found that helped me were going surfing with someone else more than being on your own, finding a break that is not too crowded or used by surf schools or beginners of similar ability, going back in on calm days when the waves are 2-3ft max. Get back to basics of paddling, popping up and riding the wave down the line, without so many wipeouts.
The other important things are to get into the habit of covering your head with your arms and hands when wiping out, or when surfacing. Also if I am not up and riding yet, but know I'm going to get pounded I ensure that I grip onto my board as tight as possible and wait until calm resumes, even if it involves being thrown around a lot. Letting go of it is bad for you and can be bad for anyone near you too.
You have to go often in conditions that you are comfortable in, get back to enjoying it again.....after a while you will regain your confidence and lose your fear of injury again, but you will certainly be wiser for your experience!