Can someone analyse this short vid?

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Can someone analyse this short vid?

Postby peazz » Sat Dec 28, 2013 7:27 am

So arrived at Newcastle today to 2-3ft with 22mph onshore winds and chopped out surf.

I was out for 40 minutes and managed to catch one wave, may not seem like a lot to you guys watching, but to me it marks a huge improvement and a sign of progression for me, Im so stoked and cant wipe the grin off my face..

Ignoring the fact that I most prob did the right thing jumping off my board as the wave was closing out and the fact that the wave was already breaking, could someone analyse the video below and tell me what I should of done with my weight placement?, should I of treated it as a drop in and re-weighted my front foot? or is it down to my hand positioning?

I angled my board to get into it right, drove down the exposed face to generate speed and weighted my back foot for the bottom turn, after this the 'push' (an alien feeling to me up till now) threw me off balance at which point I used my last bit of balance to wipe out so I didnt get smashed against the rocks a foot or two below me.

Appreciate this guys!

Its just you and the heart beat of the earth, that moment when u take the drop nothing else matters your mind is completely free of all material thought processes. Your human.
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Re: Can someone analyse this short vid?

Postby oldmansurfer » Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:35 am

Well I have such a hard time looking at a surfer from that view. The wave looks smaller and it's hard for me to tell what your body position is in relation to the wave. So my advice would be just be happy you are improving :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Can someone analyse this short vid?

Postby peazz » Sat Dec 28, 2013 8:41 am

Compared to what u are surfing over that neck of the woods its tiny! muhahaha
Its just you and the heart beat of the earth, that moment when u take the drop nothing else matters your mind is completely free of all material thought processes. Your human.
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Re: Can someone analyse this short vid?

Postby spectrefish » Tue Dec 31, 2013 5:25 pm

see my comments in your other thread. :) I have the same troubles surfing backside. I've explained it in more detail over there. in short though, you are leaning too far back when turning up the wave. if you dig your right rail in that hard you need to already be shifting your weight forward and toward the nose, putting pressure on your toes, as soon as you feel the wave begin to lift you up toward the lip. Try not doing such a hard bottom turn, just to tiny weight shifts until you get the hang of it. It's working really well for me. I'm trying to surf backside as much as I can lately just to fine tune it.
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