I was out for 40 minutes and managed to catch one wave, may not seem like a lot to you guys watching, but to me it marks a huge improvement and a sign of progression for me, Im so stoked and cant wipe the grin off my face..
Ignoring the fact that I most prob did the right thing jumping off my board as the wave was closing out and the fact that the wave was already breaking, could someone analyse the video below and tell me what I should of done with my weight placement?, should I of treated it as a drop in and re-weighted my front foot? or is it down to my hand positioning?
I angled my board to get into it right, drove down the exposed face to generate speed and weighted my back foot for the bottom turn, after this the 'push' (an alien feeling to me up till now) threw me off balance at which point I used my last bit of balance to wipe out so I didnt get smashed against the rocks a foot or two below me.
Appreciate this guys!