Surfing Waves

As a younger surfer, I was always encouraged by mates to get out there.

We surfed in all sorts of conditions, howling onshores, offshore, low tide high tide, hail rain or shine,,,,peaks or close outs...didnt matter we just hit it....gung ho....

But as I get older and hopefully a little wiser, I figure eveything somewhat differently.

Self preservation takes precedence over 'go out in anything....

Today, yep, had my heart set on getting out there...but a steadily increasing onshore breeze,
a rising swell delivering close outs on a lowish tide and I anguished, but after watching and watching, and checking out a hand full of spots, I figured, I actually had a better day not going out in bad conditions.

So these days I am a 'fair weather surfer' and thats where the fun is..!!

Ross

Its a pain getting older and recognising risks...in my job I also deal sometimes with injured people, which further makes me aware of all the things that can go wrong. I've even started thinking about a helmet!

That said, I suspect being a fair weather surfer is how I should describe myself. Indeed, sometimes I feel like a 'fair wave surfer' - if the wave feels a bit too steep, for example, I will pull back. But after about 3 waves I get fed up and just start catching them.

I am an ex-risk taker. Used to get a thrill from big huge narly waves that could possibly cause some damage. I quit surfing and got out of shape and now what is risky conditions to me is different. However I still went out on a day when another surfer said I was crazy to go out and I did go in as soon as I felt like I was getting tired and I didn't get hurt. Some people like perfection and I guess I like it too but what thrills me more is radical stormy conditions and waves that break in sections unevenly. Weather wise I am in Hawaii so unless it's a hurricane the weather is not an issue. I think you need to do what makes you happy. Today I went out and there was almost no surf and I paddled out to a break that was at least a half mile out and ended up not catching any waves to mention but it was sunny and the water was nice and I need to paddle around to keep my arms strong for when there is surf. It was all good to me.

Old man if you ever want to surf the fabled north beach on MCBH gimme a buzz

pandarturo wrote:Old man if you ever want to surf the fabled north beach on MCBH gimme a buzz

Thanks for the offer but I am also a busy ex risk taker. My life is so mundane these days but surfing is still enjoyable.

Lol

Yeah. Sometimes it just isn't worth going out unless it's been a while since your last surf. To get all kitted out, wetsuits needed here, etc..., can be enough of a hassle to not bother. I've driven 50kms to go meet someone who's surf report was sketchy at best only to get there in onshore rain mush burgers. I didn't get out of the truck. Watched a bit, turned around and left.

pico_train wrote:Yeah. Sometimes it just isn't worth going out unless it's been a while since your last surf. To get all kitted out, wetsuits needed here, etc..., can be enough of a hassle to not bother. I've driven 50kms to go meet someone who's surf report was sketchy at best only to get there in onshore rain mush burgers. I didn't get out of the truck. Watched a bit, turned around and left.

That makes me realise how fortunate I am, I'm 5 minutes away from my favourite surf break I can't see it but I can add up all the factors and know before I go and I can be on the first pulse of a swell ASAP.
Kudos to all those who have to do it hard to get their fix and are still stoked!

You are! Luckily that's not the closest break. The closest is 20kms away and I have its necessary variables waxed! :-p

I have never been more than a few minutes away from the ocean while living in Hawaii. Now I live a block from where I grew up and the beach has few breaks so typically one of them will have worthwhile waves although lately it's been dismal. I just go to the beach but have to make a decision which board to take still if the waves look like I need another board I will just drive home switch boards and go back. It's not a popular break anymore so I often am the only surfer there except for wind surfers when it is windy and a crowd when it is reasonably good but again there are several breaks and usually you can find a peak that is unsurfed. I am too busy to go looking for surf so I only go there. I give you all credit for having to expend so much more energy just to get to the surf or to get ready to surf.

Interestingly, I've spoken to a heap of people who live right next to the beach who reckon they surf less than when they lived further away (although by 'further' they mean 10-15km, not 50km). When living right on the beach they become very picky and only surf when its good (whatever that means to them).

So they might check out the waves, see they are 1ft and think 'nah, I'll just have a coffee'. But if they have had to drive to the beach, even if its only 20 minutes, then they surf no matter what because they have gone to the effort. And often will have a lot of fun, even if it is only 1ft.

That said, when the surf is good the beach dwellers agree they will surf every day for a week straight, sometimes 2 or even 3 sessions on the weekend. So I suspect, over time, beach dwellers surf more than those who dont live close and get more quality surf. However the number of 'could surf but chose not to' times are much greater.

I am a different kind of surfer, totally addicted but no time to go surf so I allot 2 X 30 minute session in my life a week and if there are any waves I am out there...that means waist high to 3 times over head and nearly perfect to wind chop. I missed a couple days recently because I hurt my neck carrying my standup paddle board on my head and there weren't enough waves to surf with any other boards. I live on the east side so it generally has a wind swell most of the time but lately it is like a lake. If it's like this next time I go I will risk taking the standup paddle board and just not carry it on my head.

You guys are lucky....my nearest break is 110kms away....I watch the surf report very carefully before making up my mind to go....nothing worse than turning up to onshore slop after that journey