Surfing Waves

Hi, so I'm new around here.

I'm very new to surfing. Slightly older than I wanted to be now that I've started (27!), but better late than never, right? I've always wanted to Surf, and now that I've moved back to South Africa, I've finally started! Took a couple of lessons (where I was just pointed in the right direction and congratulated every time I managed to stand for more than 2 seconds, woo, go me!), but now I'm on my own and I've bought a board....

And I'm absolutely terrified. And feel free to call me an idiot - I know I'm an idiot. I've been giving myself loads of pep-talks and advice

I suspect the surfing community is great and friendly (my surfing instructor was very friendly), but I'm terrified of going into the water knowing no-one. Will they laugh at me, or call me a "kook", not only because I'm still struggling to stand on my board, but because I'm still struggling to sit on it! (facepalm when the board flies out from between my legs, "sorry guys" just play it cool you idiot).

I get scared because when I'm out in the backline, everyone seems to be staying in one place and I seem to be drifting further way, only having to paddle back everytime I realise I'm moving, and they're not (what sorcery is this?)... and then I'm all "dammit, I'm such a "kook"

And oh great, look at that 12 year old carving it up. I'm mean, wow, they're fantastic. Oh Gosh, why am I even out here!?

I guess I just have some massive anxiety issues. I was fine when I had someone with me, but now that I'm effectively alone, with little experience or skill - I kinda feel like a drowning rat.

So I thought I'd share my stupidity with you, and hope to glean some wise words/motivation or a kick up the arse.

Thanks in advance...

Ps... I'm planning to go out tomorrow morning before work, but I'm trying to figure out where to put my electronic car keys... coz they aint going in the water with me! ha!

RR

No worries, we're all friendly

So about the "I feel an idiot, everyone will think I'm an idiot" thing... one of the biggest confidence boosts I ever got in the water was when I realised no-one else cares. You're all self-conscious, but to me you're just one more surfer in the water. I will work out where you stand in the pecking order (and also whether you're likely to get in my way) but other than that, you're just a number in the water. I'm way too busy watching for the next wave and making sure I'm in the right position to worry about what you're doing.

So as long as you know the rules (priority, drop-in etc), I won't think about you at all, let alone that you're an idiot.

only thing I'd add to what DtripleB has said, get a non electronic key if one is available to open your door put it the leash pocket leave the electronic keys hidden in the car.
Failing that hide your keys in the usual place on top of the rear wheel driver's side.

You are allowed to be an idiot when you are learning. Check out anyone that is learning tennis or rollerskating, they are a riot to watch. So are new surfers, so are you.

Eventually you won't suck, but until then, thanks for entertaining us. And smile every time you fall fowards, backwards or whatever, we like fun surfers, not sour ones.

Hey guys,

Thanks for the replies. As I said, I'm going out in the morning (a few hours from now, ye I've woken up at silly o' clock, for some reason).

My assumption is I'm at the bottom of the pecking order, but how does that translate in the water? Do I just catch a wave last? And who does have priority when catching a wave?

Yours in entertainment
R

GonubieRat wrote:Yours in entertainment

So basically you're at the bottom of the pecking order. In theory that doesn't make a bit of difference to whose wave it is etc, but in practise means people won't give you a second chance and might go for a wave you're paddling for and basically be a bit unfair
But don't panic - everyone went through it, and just keep surfing until you move up the order.

Right... priority...
If a wave is clean (ie unbroken) but is breaking, the surfer closest to where its breaking has priority. Full stop. If you remember that, you'll rarely get in anyone's way. Also remember that while you're learning, you'll be heading forward towards the beach, but the better surfers will be tearing along the wave at right angles to the wave's direction, so you need to look right along the wave (in both directions) before you take a wave.

And if someone is on a wave, and you're inside (closer to the beach), its up to you to get out of the way, not up to the surfer to go round you. That means that almost always, you may have to paddle towards where its already broken and just wear it on the head (in time you'll work out how to be in the right place so this doesn't happen, but everyone gets caught inside sometimes).

Lastly, don't ever let go of your board - you'll be a danger to others and get in the way of people surfing.

If you can remember all that every time you're out there, you'll be a newbie but people will barely notice you because you're not in the way. To be noticed out there you have to be exceptionally good or exceptionally bad... so don't be the exceptionally bad guy!

are you surfing waves or in the whitewash? If in the whitewash, don't worry about wave location, just try to stay out of the way. If you are surfing breaking waves you have the same priority as an experienced surfer, just know your rules and don't drop in on anyone.

Hi all,
So I just wanted to say I went out this morning, and had a terrific time. Stayed a bit closer to land (only went out to the backline once) - bit of scared of big waves and the unknown... heh.

But all the confidence that was knocked out of me last week was renewed today. Was able to stand a number of times and for much longer periods. Also the new wax I applied worked a treat. And was only 10 minutes late for work (oh my!)

Going again tomorrow morning - this time with a mate.

Thanks for the advice. RR

I'm in the same boat as you...just started, just as old as you are, been out maybe 6 or 7 times now. I've avoided the anxiety by going to a break that was not crowded and very spread out, but the waves became too big there recently and were kicking my butt (4-5 foot waves with a lot of force, and I kinda stubbornly refuse to surf in whitewater). I had to go up to a more popular spot with smaller but better surf, and I was pretty anxious, because I never surfed with so many other people, but it was actually pretty fun, and I just picked a spot a little closer to shore where the waves weren't as long (it was a point break) because I can't ride them very far anyway, and I managed to catch a few nice ones and also got to watch some really good surfers go at it. I think I will be less anxious next time, but anxiety has always been a thing of mine and I'm sure it won't be gone till I am more skilled and not a beginner anymore.

Thanks for sharing GD6. Good to know I'm not alone in the anxiety department!

Cant wait till tomorrow morning. I just need to get over my this fear of bigger waves. I haven't quite worked out how to tell when/where the wave is going to break and the best place so it doesnt break on top of you ... coz thats when then things become scary!

Regards
R

I've managed to ride some big powerful waves (I would guess like 4-6ft waves) and actually looked like I knew what I was doing to some extent (though to me I was just kinda surprised that it worked out so well), but also wiped out rather hard a number of times and realized I would probably be better off somewhere with smaller waves. I'm going to stick to a break with smaller 2-3ft waves because they are much more forgiving, and after I'm a lot more confident I will try some bigger waves. It made me feel better seeing some advanced surfers shredding on 3 ft waves, no need to chase after the big ones yet!

Don't be a wavist. All waves are great. Big, small, choppy, clean, right, or left!

I started surfing at 29, I'm now 36. One thing that helped me with bigger waves is the rule of 10. Have you heard of the rule of 10? It means 10ft/10 second. If a wave is under 10 feet, you will not be held under the water longer than 10 seconds. Its true. Next time you take a beating, start counting in your head while your under water: 1-one thousand, 2- one thousand, 3-one thousand. You will not make it to 10. The closest I've come is 6-7, and thats taking some gnarley 8-9 footers on the head.

And who cannot hold their breath for 10 seconds?

GonubieRat,
wish I'd seen your posts earlier. I started surfing 20 years later than you (47!) Be encouraged and keep the stoke!

I'm not the only one on this forums, other forums, and no forums that started 45 or later. If we can do it, you can do it!

Best regards always. Don't ever give up.
billie
Santa Barbara

hit_the_lip wrote:I started surfing at 29, I'm now 36. One thing that helped me with bigger waves is the rule of 10. Have you heard of the rule of 10? It means 10ft/10 second. If a wave is under 10 feet, you will not be held under the water longer than 10 seconds. Its true. Next time you take a beating, start counting in your head while your under water: 1-one thousand, 2- one thousand, 3-one thousand. You will not make it to 10. The closest I've come is 6-7, and thats taking some gnarley 8-9 footers on the head.

And who cannot hold their breath for 10 seconds?

I don't know about that lol

I used to worry about looking stupid etc when i was first learning too.....it does pass with time as you better and more confident in your own ability. It's true what others have already said here too - no one else is looking at you, they are too busy doing their own thing! As long as you are having fun and stay safe while learning what else matters?
There are some things you can do to get your confidence up though, which helped me...
- go with a friend...always more fun and you tend to look out for each other.
- go to breaks you know you are comfortable with until you feel ready to challenge yourself more.
- find a break where you can find a nice quiet spot and spread out, where not everyone is trying to catch the same wave.
- one thing I found helpful was to surf somewhere that I knew there would be a group of beginners with a surf school. I would stay away from them, but I also knew that I wasn't the worst surfer in!!!!
- go surfing as often as possible!

No one even sees you unless you're dangerous or getting in the way all the time. Just keep practicing off to the side. Try to go where others don't unless it's not safe. The waves will be crappier but you'll think less about the people around you and instead focus on your surfing. You could also look for other newbs and go with them - look online for sites like MeetUp (if it still exists).

Hey! Just discovered this post.
I'm still very new myself, so I'm not gonna offer any advice for your surfing. What I can say though is, get a keysafe for your electronic car key. I have one, you lock you key in it and bolt it to the tow hook of your car. Then when you want it you just open it up with the combination and away you go!! Saved me a lot of headaches as to where to keep my key.
Check out Amazon or eBay or even a local surf/camping shop.