Surfing Waves

So i just got my new board a 5'9 Makani Gizmo alot like a neck beard I ride its as a quad so i can ride a wave until it loses power 80% of the time now but sometimes i endup to far in front of the waves. Switching off my 6'6 to the 5'9 has made a little diffrence but i was told by a freind I get moving to fast so I end up in front of the wave instead of on the wave. Next any one who is familiar with Oahu im ridding white plains and concessions right now. Next i was told on larger waves I may need to lean back more but cant seem to. Is it a getting over a fear thing or does any one have any tips on that? If it would help I do have a bunch of videos of me surfing i took with my go pro on youtube but at work currently so cant accses youtube to post here.All help advice and other ish would be very appreciated.

You gotta learn how to cut back. If you get to far out on the shoulder you lose all the power from the wave. You just have to practice. White plains has that left from the other side of the fence but the rest of it is pretty mushy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrbLQ61hJgU

So on lunch at home Here is part of me surfing on the 4thkinda jsut put it together for my mom. This is my 6'6 board i have no video of my smaller board yet.

From what I can see those are pretty mushy. Also when you stand up you should be facing the way you want to go especially on stepper waves.

So I do turn on the steeper waves is the fact im riding such a mushy wave now part of the reason why im having such a hard time Picking up the little things now?

The smaller the wave is the harder you have to paddle.