Surfing Waves

Hi Guys,

Whenever I go out I seem to have much more fun on the little fellas. They seem to be a lot more forgiving, easier to get to etc but when I get to the beach and they are a decent size I bob my pants and end up fooling around on the larger white water than trying to crack onto the larger green waves.

Is there much difference between the two other than 2-3 ft waves feel like standing on a coffee table and the others are like wardrobe height? Do they ride/feel the same?

Cheers

Dan

Larger waves generally have more power so enable you to perform more manoeuvres, however they are harder to catch because they are faster, and harder to paddle out through because they break further out.

When you feel you're ready you get off the low furniture and head out.
You've got to be prepared to take a smack down or two in your evolution.
If you won't stretch your limits little bit by little bit then you are doomed to a lifetime of white wash.
There are bigger waves around that are user friendly you just have to find them.
The more confident you become in your skills the more challenges you can take on!

The fear and skill factors are what keeps the learners from driving their Volkswagen beetles on the Formula One track, and it's carnage all round if they do.
So I repeat line 3
If you won't stretch your limits little bit by little bit then you are doomed to a lifetime of white wash. Emphasising the important parts

I found UK 12ft faces to be a breeze . . . once I got my head around the huge drops . . . if you can paddle and surf head high walls, 12ft faces (aka a solid 5ft) are doable . . . as soon as you get the balls to catch one and ride it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about (until a killer set comes in of course!)

Dude how does the whole 12ft face but only called a 5ft work? Whats that about?

Id live to ride a 12 ft beast. Slowly slowly, when i can nail most of my waves ill be looking to go big!

Dantastic1985 wrote:Dude how does the whole 12ft face but only called a 5ft work? Whats that about?

Id live to ride a 12 ft beast. Slowly slowly, when i can nail most of my waves ill be looking to go big!

Okay . . .
Question:
How does 12=5 ?

Answer:
When surfing the 12ft face wave, the face you can see and ride up and down on is physically 12ft tall.
If you did not paddle for the wave, you just let it go under you, and then simply watched it travel to shore you’d see just the back of the wave and it would physically be about 5 to six foot in height.
So;
The 12 foot is the height of the face as seen on the actual wave face itself.
The 5 foot is the height of the back of the same wave as it travels to shore, but seen while still sat in the line-up.

At my local break, when the surf report says it’s 3-4ft, I know I’m in for six to eight foot faces.
When the surf report says its ten foot – I go and buy beer and watch the TV (I have no intention of surfing 20ft + storm closeout faces!).

EDIT: Here you can see the face is higher than the back of the wave:

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=breaki ... :100,i:175

Good explanation

Dude thats really helpful. Thank you.

Very glad to meet everybody here,I am just a new member of this forum,I want to make more friends here,I hope you can like me.
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share love,share happy,share unwanted information about your URLs and advertrolling edited into good wishes and we would love you to talk about lessons in surfing not computer games Jaffa.
It's a pity people come and post bogus replies to get their advertrolling out .

just go for it, it will only sting for a minute if you face plant lol part of the fun

deegan711 wrote:just go for it, it will only sting for a minute if you face plant lol part of the fun

The wave might throw you on top of your board...elbow landing on your fin and cutting a hole in your wetsuit AND arm....you get held under for a little longer than you have been on any previous attempts....when it's all over and you resurface, just hope your friends saw it and are laughing their asses off!

That hole in my arm left a scar but the fin didn't break off!!!