Surfing Waves

Hello there.

Waiting for some decent surf to show up, I spend most of my time thinking about my surfing progress and what to do next time I'm in the water.

I just realised that I'm messing a bit the very first part of my rides.

As I catch waves pointing to the beach, I pop up as soon as I can and turn the board (usually to the right) almost at the same time. Sometimes I fell*, sometimes my balance is just ok and I enjoy the moment.

But as I said, I wonder if this is a mistake. Should I go straight down the wave and perform a bottom turn? (to gain speed, they say) Am I missing half the speed I could have and the best part of the ride?
Is it a matter of -going straight+bottom turn- or -starting with a angle- choice?

Also: if the surf is small (1ft to 3ft) is a bottom turn worth? Or am I mixing short board things with longboard things?

If someone can clarify this for me it would be much appreciated. I will save lots of precious time!


*as I'm goofy, and break points are R, I'm surfing backhand all the times, which makes my first turn tricky

Hi again 3124T, you're giving yourself a few problems and it is a little more difficult surfing backhand ( ie a goofy footer going right or a natural footer going left). In small surf the first bottom turn is usually quite a challenge as you don't have enough time or wave face on which to drop and swing and pop up all in that moment and not end up at the base of the white water.
Start with an angle get used to that and as you will be up you can turn slightly and drop down the wave and make small bottomish type turns, as you get better you can increase the size of your turns and lessen the angle more towards a straight drop. For now start your paddle onto the wave at an angle and try it.

Short boards are mostly made with an increased nose rocker and a low volume nose to allow easier take offs in the steeper part of the wave, partly because a shorter board doesn't have the paddle power to glide onto the wave from a less steep start. have said that taking off at an angle allows you to hit the steeper part of the wave at a standing and gliding on position.

Getting good backhand skills will eventually enhance your forehand skills as they will translate to better cutbacks etc.

Really though the answers lie in the waves and just trying to find what works for you. Another helpful thing is to get mates at a similar level and try encouraging and coaching each other. You can also ask the guy in the line up who appears reasonable what he thinks is going wrong. Not everyone wants to dump on a learner.

Thank you Jaffa1949!
Well, it's not me, it's the qld coast that only provide R point break!
(I'm not confident enough to charge an open beach break, specially if I don't have some experience guy to show me around.. you know.. rips, sharks and bikinis are dangerous!!)

But.. yea.. I think it's time to seriously try to start with an angle. I don't have big problems popping up and turning the board, it's just that.. I agree with you and better follow your suggestion. I also think it'd wide the number of my waves..

I'd just need some good day to practise.. I think I'm not far from a really- really- nice ride..

312T4 wrote:I'd just need some good day to practise.. I think I'm not far from a really- really- nice ride..

If you are not hooked already after that really really nice ride you will be!

Get over your concerns about sharks they are work hard over in Western Australia, people season over there!

Seriously see if you can team up with a couple of friends increases the fun and opportunities for learning and can lessen the fuel bills.
Another thought , learn a few spots to surf on a beach break there will be lefts available on some of them. Quite often the first left bank is just across from the point rip.
Points can be so unkind to learners, pecking orders, point rips, and sharks invisible at the drop off + rocks , The bikinis ( whatever you do avoid the Babe of the day thread). Just don't stare and you will be OK !

If you are a good swimmer, why not do your surf Bronze Medallion with a surf club, you will learn everything you need to know about beach wave dynamics.
Surfclubs are now looking to educate board riders in rescue and other techniques check it out!