Surfing Waves

So everythings going great with my new board , conditions have been completely unpredictable so sometimes when the forecasts say small 1-2 feet waves, and Im like YESS IM NOT SCARED OF 1-2 FOOT WAVES LETS GO SURFING and then we get to the beach and its 6 foot waves crashing down.. When that happens, I just stay out where the white water is and practice my pop up but im having some trouble. So when it actually was a good day, I was out in the water trying to catch a wave and when i did, I saw the drop which looked huge from that angle and i chickened out. This happens often with unbroken waves. So, first question:
How do I not chicken out
Alright then next, when i do catch a wave, I often begin the pop up but then somtimes ive got one leg up but the other still curled under me and i fall, or i stand up but it takes so long that the drop is finished. I know that you are supposed to do that clean pop up where you sort of slide your legs under in one motion, and i have been practicing that on land, but then as soon as i get in the water and on my board, whether it be a whitewater or green wave, for some reason i just dont do it, and Im not sure why. So, second question:
How do you do your pop up, and how can I do mine faster, and actually do it

Then last of all, where is the best place to get your feet into , in order to have full control of the board?

Shot oakks.

[surfthosewaves] wrote: I saw the drop which looked huge from that angle and i chickened out. This happens often with unbroken waves. So, first question:
How do I not chicken out

It's a paddling issue, not a wave issue. When you are a weak or slow paddler the wave will lift you and you drop in, as opposed to glidding in. Try catching the wave earlier work on faster paddling, and don't forget to kick with your feet (unless longboarding)

[surfthosewaves] wrote: So, second question:
How do you do your pop up, and how can I do mine faster, and actually do it

It' hard as a begginer to bring your legs under you, so don't. If you slow down the speed of a popup you will notice that the back foot lands before the front, which you should be trying. back foot then front, faster as you get better. Try it.

[surfthosewaves] wrote:Then last of all, where is the best place to get your feet into , in order to have full control of the board? Shot oakks.

On a shortboard on the stomp pad or with your back foot bettween the fins. On a longer board board it varies, the farther back you are the more you can control the board but watch out you aren't too far back that you stall the board. A nice wide stance gives you the most versatility, so stop standing with your feet together.

There might be some other suggestions...

themathteacher wrote:

[surfthosewaves] wrote: I saw the drop which looked huge from that angle and i chickened out. This happens often with unbroken waves. So, first question:
How do I not chicken out

It's a paddling issue, not a wave issue. When you are a weak or slow paddler the wave will lift you and you drop in, as opposed to glidding in. Try catching the wave earlier work on faster paddling, and don't forget to kick with your feet (unless longboarding)ea

Thanks so much for this, I went out an gave it a try and I wasnt scared at all!

[surfthosewaves] wrote: So, second question:
How do you do your pop up, and how can I do mine faster, and actually do it

It' hard as a begginer to bring your legs under you, so don't. If you slow down the speed of a popup you will notice that the back foot lands before the front, which you should be trying. back foot then front, faster as you get better. Try it.

I have tried that.. the waves at my break , they break pretty fast pretty much as soon as you can see them developed you need to be on the wave, and then even if you catch it earlier like you suggested they still break very soon much earlier than places in like videos ive watched and stuff, so as soon as i am caught by the wave i need to be standing up in an instant to not fall over. This slowed down version does not work. If i work hard on pulling my legs under, will i eventually get it? Im not worried about time or practice, I go down to the beach anyday its good conditions- im 5 mins from the beach.

[surfthosewaves] wrote:Then last of all, where is the best place to get your feet into , in order to have full control of the board?

On a shortboard on the stomp pad or with your back foot bettween the fins. On a longer board board it varies, the farther back you are the more you can control the board but watch out you aren't too far back that you stall the board. A nice wide stance gives you the most versatility, so stop standing with your feet together.

Ok, and what about the front foot? Ive heard that your supposed to have your front one in the middle. Is this true? I am aware moving it forward and back will change weight distribution therefore changing like speed and stuff, but as a neutral position, where would the front foot go?

themathteacher wrote:

[surfthosewaves] wrote:It's a paddling issue, not a wave issue. When you are a weak or slow paddler the wave will lift you and you drop in, as opposed to glidding in. Try catching the wave earlier work on faster paddling, and don't forget to kick with your feet (unless longboarding)

Hope you dont mind me jumping in here but the foot paddling thing is something I have really struggled with. I am mister lack of coordination when it comes to paddling for a wave and engaging my legs as well. Any tips to help me get better?

You are really welcome in the discussion Notty but Uncle Jaffa disagrees entirely , he says, don't kick your legs to help paddle the board , you can lose rhythm and unbalance yourself.
I think the kicking also disrupts the forward glide of the board.
Best feet position for paddling is together at the centre line at the back of the board and even if a little hangs over on a short board it is no issue.
Feet apart however means the feet are acting like sea anchors and not necessarily equally and so you get one sided drag and you have to wobble to correct it.
Paddling is all about upper body strength and coordination and for beginners like Notty trying to get the lower body going as well makes it so difficult.

Some people on racing paddle boards when they are lying down use a cadence beat with their legs to aid in breathing as it works the diaphragm and increases respiration but they are usually highly coordinated.

A suggestion for all learners is to do some paddling training where you paddle at normal paddle around speeds and then do a short burst of fast wave catching paddle and repeat over and over get paddle fit and smart.
Read and do the fitness tips on this site , they are really good.

BTW almost all top surfers have a fitness and coordination program, and they can out paddle as well as out surf most recreational surfers.

With the kicky thing, just so we can show that everyone does it slightly differently...

I don't disagree with Jaffa or mathsteach, just I do it differently. I find (on a shortboard) that I glide and catch waves best if I pull both legs up so that my feet are quite high (and don't kick), and centre all my weight on the board.
I think it's because I sometimes have a tendency to lie about 2" further back than I should, and I've got heavy cyclists legs, so bringing the feet up (but avoiding putting weight through the knees) pushes the weight a critical little bit forward.



...it's only now I write that, that I realise that's an @arse-about-face way of doing things and probably shouldn't be recommended, but hey, whatever works

drowningbitbybit wrote:With the kicky thing, just so we can show that everyone does it slightly differently...

, but hey, whatever works

In the end absobloodlutely

Good point, try kicking, or don't, in the end try what works best for you. When I longboard I kick in the air, I see others do it, but most don't. It seems to work for me.

Also, as to the front foot, it will lie where it needs to naturally unless your feet are too close together.

for surfthosewaves, a few things to keep in mind (unless you are already doing them)

- to give yourself more time to pop up, angle the board across the wave. If you are going straight down the wave (ie pointing directly at the beach) then it is almost impossible to pop up in time. This may be all you need - an extra second. Angle about 15 degrees.

That said, sometimes - particularly at low tide or in shallow water - waves rear up 'out of nowhere' then break almost immediately and close out almost immediately. For those waves, they just may not be catchable (particularly with a longboard). Hunt for a nicer wave if possible. Try the beach around the corner (if there is one).

- if you get really frustrated at the pop up, investigate the 'aussie sprinter' pop up style (google it). Only works on longboards but is often easier to use (even if it looks ungainly). I know some people will say 'don’t learn a work around that you later need to change', but if your level of frustration justifies it and it helps, then try it.

- when you pop up, stay low - keep your knees and hips bent. I know from my own surfing that sometimes I am popping up and trying to stand up immediately, which (a) usually results in a fall and (b) is actually harder to do. Its easier to bring your bent legs under your hips (ie pop up) and leave them bent. Once you are stable, stand up if you need to.

- normally your front foot ends up roughly between where your hands were placed on the board, and normally when you are laying down your chest/shoulders are positioned roughly where your front foot should be after you pop up. This is because if your chest is in the wrong place, then you will feel that you are laying on the board wrong (too far back/nose in the air or too far forward/nose buried). Its just one of those happy co-incidences - your front foot will generally automatically land in about the right place.

Of course, for long boards you can move your feet around quite a bit to achieve different effects; which also means your feet can land in many different places and still create a stable board. If you pop up and you are in the wrong place, just move your feet, no big deal. But dont over think about feet during the pop up.

jaffa1949 wrote:Feet apart however means the feet are acting like sea anchors and not necessarily equally and so you get one sided drag and you have to wobble to correct it.

Could be something here. At the start of a session normally try to paddle my feet, or try to give a couple of big slaps just before I get the wave, but later when I am tired I revert to arm paddling only. I dont really consider what my feet are doing.

Most good shortboarders I see, including Kelly Slater, do foot paddling. Some guys look like they are doing 60% foot paddling (once the wave is picking them up) compared to 40% arms. Its relevant to me as I'm too knackered half the time after a long paddle out to turn round and then put in a strong arm paddle to catch a nice peaking shoulder coming through.

Dtc, I am on a shortboard. I am only 12 so the guys at the shops and the guys on here thought I would be fine learning on a shortboard.

[surfthosewaves] wrote:Dtc, I am on a shortboard. I am only 12 so the guys at the shops and the guys on here thought I would be fine learning on a shortboard.

Got me confused, you write much more lucidly than most 12 yr olds!

Ok, ignore much of what I said, but the angling of the board is still important. Also, as soon as you feel the wave pushing the board, pop up. There will be times when the wave just washes underneath you because you are 1/2 second too early; but you will have a better chance of catching the wave than if you wait too long, given the conditions.

Guys whats the method of popping up on a shortboard? Obviously on a long board your feet are on the end of the board, what happens when this isnt possible?

On land i can pop up no problem in the press up style position but on my board i always end up using one knee as i really struggle to get both of my feet together on my board. Its quite thin at the rear and not overly long.

Any advice appreciated.

Dantastic1985 wrote:Guys whats the method of popping up on a shortboard? Obviously on a long board your feet are on the end of the board, what happens when this isnt possible?

On land i can pop up no problem in the press up style position but on my board i always end up using one knee as i really struggle to get both of my feet together on my board. Its quite thin at the rear and not overly long.

Any advice appreciated.

You use your knees for a bit of spring, and get your arms as far back as possible.

Practice on land without using your feet, keep your knees bent and your feet in the air while you do it.

Thanks dude. Did a bit of youtubing last night and think i know what im missing. Just need to get in the sea now!

Cheers!