Surfing Waves

Hi all! It's been a while since I posted but I still check in now and then
I thought I'd post a couple of questions about where I am and where I'd like to be

My friend and I have been at it for 2 years now on our 9'1" longboards. We usually get out 2+ times a week and spend most of our time on a beach break (good conditions are rare but it gives you lots of space to spread out). We are getting up and riding the face pretty reliably on small waves (2-3') at the beach. The waves here get tall fast and we aren't having much success on bigger waves (pearling, missing waves, thrashed in the foam).

We have been checking out a small, unpopular reef break more and more, preferring to keep away from the crowds at the really good spots. At "our" reef we are able to do more with slightly bigger waves, and are really enjoying the difference

We don't have a lot of confidence to put ourselves into a lineup. When there's a crowd we usually hang out on the shoulder and catch next to nothing. The good breaks around here are normally packed with people on nice days and we haven't stepped foot in the water there yet

I am going to have a look at a cheap, beat up old 7'3 minimal next week. I want to experiment a bit, but I've also read a longboard can make catching bigger, taller waves hard because they don't have as much rocker (do you agree?)

What I'd like to know are 2 things- 1) what should I look for in a second, smaller board? I'm 6', 145lb "older" female I have a general idea 6'8-7'6ish with float (right?) could anyone can suggest a make or model or post a picture? 2) when is a person ready to move into a busier spot with bigger waves? It seems that reef breaks are easier to catch and much more fun to ride than beach breaks. Am I nuts to consider heading into 5' point/reef breaks? If we're doing well on 2-3' beach waves, is that the size we should start on at the good spots? One thing I've noticed at the reefs is the rocks, and they aren't under much water when the waves are breaking at 2-3'.

I'm not sure what to call our level of ability- advanced beginner perhaps? I thought I'd post to see if anyone has any advice for me

Thanks

It sounds like you are following the same track I did for learning. I've been surfing for about 2 years, mainly longboard/mini mal at a beach break. I started downsizing my boards a lot sooner though.

I started with a 9'6" longboard, then switched to an 8' mini mal but stayed at the beach break until I got used to the new balance of the board. My progress increased dramatically switching to the mini mal because of the greater maneuverability and difference in balance.

I also added a 7' Anderson "Big Guy Tri" to my quiver and started using that alongside my mini mal. I'm not a big guy, and I didn't know the board was built for bigger guys who like to shred when I bought it. I just found it on Craigslist with a vague description and a great picture for an incredible deal and snatched it up right away. It's made to be thicker and a little wider so it's a great transitional board for someone who wants to switch from a mini mal/longboard to a gun.

The Anderson is my board of choice now and I'm still mainly sticking to the beachbreaks while i master this board.

Sticking to a beachbreak is a comfort for me since there is usually lots of space to spread out, but it hinders your learning. The beach breaks around me tend to be great on a 2-3' day, but close out on bigger days so it limits what you are able to learn on.
I've ventured out to some reef breaks a little more lately and I'm confident enough to get in the lineup because I know how to share. Some places get kinda aggro when they don't know you and hog all the waves because they know how to catch them faster and ride them better. They will even go as far as dropping in on you then get mad at you anyway. If you run into a place like that, just find a better location (friendlier people) or go at a different time.

I recommend getting out to a reef a little more often and getting to know the locals. They will accept you over time when they see you there consistently. There will always be jerks in the world though too.

Good luck!

It appears to be like you are following the same monitor I did for studying. I've been browsing for about 2 decades, mainly longboard/mini mal at a seaside crack. I began downsizing my forums a lot earlier though.

Evembee wrote:It appears to be like you are following the same monitor I did for studying. I've been browsing for about 2 decades, mainly longboard/mini mal at a seaside crack. I began downsizing my forums a lot earlier though.

Don't you hate it when your translator goes wonky and inaccurate lay copies what you are trying to copy

spectrefish wrote:It sounds like you are following the same track I did for learning.

Weird. Hold off the xenophobic zappers I want to see what's next!

Hi Buttertoes,having played around a bit answering in my post above I thought I' d give you a proper answer.

If you are feeling more confident then one board you can look at is a 7S fish from global surf industries the volume will still give you the longboard advantage and you can choose either epoxy or standard construction
IMO a 7'3" or a 7'6" would do, there are also fun boards in that size range that will work for you.

Not sure what is available in Nova Scotia but browse though boards in that size range from other makers

The secondhand board you are considering would be a good trial board.. See how you go with that.
Stay a little while in familiar breaks and compare the boards, if you notice a jump in skill and confidence approach your new challenges, in bite size pieces a little closer to the peak, a little bigger a little more crowded.

Glad to see you have the stoke!

Thanks Jaffa, Spectrefish (um and Evembee)! This is just the info I was looking for. They have something that looks similar to the boards you mentioned locally (spider fish bomb 7'4) but they're beyond my budget at the moment. I'll have to keep an eye on the used ads but I'm glad to know what I should be looking for. And glad to hear that we aren't alone in the challenges we're having!

We're heading into winter and the crowds usually thin the colder it gets, which might mean we can try the good breaks without being in the way No shortage of stoke Jaffa! I wish I'd discovered this 20 years ago