Surfing Waves

Hi, Im new here and have been surfing for 1-2 yrs but v inconsistently (once a wk during summers) Im surfing on a crappy break where the peaks are very inconsistent. Usually i sit and watch and paddle towards where i see the peak forming. However as I paddle parallel to the short towards the peak, I don't seem to be able to turn on time to face the shore. Whats the proper way to do this? Do I have to sit up and turn after i reach the peak, or is there a way to turn the board while paddling. I'm on a 7'6, and can't seem to turn the board while im lying on it. Same problem when trying to angle the board for the takeoff

Either option may work but depends on the circumstances. You can turn a board while paddling but it is very ssslllloooowww. Just angle your paddling strokes and lean a bit in the direction you want to go. Sitting back and getting the nose out of the water is much faster, but you do have to get out of and then back into paddling position which also takes time. (This is the same phenomenon as in turning - "trimming" turns on the side of the board have a much greater radius - and are therefore slower - than "carving" turns where you lift the nose out of the water). If you are not good at pivoting the board then practice sitting up, leaning back and turning the board. You will gradually get faster at it.

Over time you will get better at judging when to paddle at an angle towards the peak and when to paddle, stop and pivot. It also involves knowing your break and conditions and gradually learning where waves are likely to break, along with where and at what angle you need to be to catch them. Reading shifty beach break peaks is challenging, especially in choppy conditions. Experience is really the only way to improve.

thefatboy wrote:Hi, Im new here and have been surfing for 1-2 yrs but v inconsistently (once a wk during summers) Im surfing on a crappy break where the peaks are very inconsistent. Usually i sit and watch and paddle towards where i see the peak forming. However as I paddle parallel to the short towards the peak, I don't seem to be able to turn on time to face the shore. Whats the proper way to do this? Do I have to sit up and turn after i reach the peak, or is there a way to turn the board while paddling. I'm on a 7'6, and can't seem to turn the board while im lying on it. Same problem when trying to angle the board for the takeoff

If I'm paddling over to get to the peak, I usually start making my turn a little early, and try to time it so that I'll be mostly aimed in the right direction at about the time the wave reaches me. Of course paddling straight across fast, sitting back and swinging the board around works too - you'll turn faster but you have to then get down into paddle position and get your speed back up before the wave overtakes you.

I turn quickly while paddling by altering my stroke on the side I want to turn towards - pull in and under the board on that side rather than straight back along the rail. You could also lean on that rail a bit.

I'm also surfing a break where we get very inconsistent peaks at times. You either have to chase them down or wait forever for one to come to you.

The "very inconsistently" may be part of what is making things difficult for you. Paddle fitness requires work and disappears quickly when it isn't used. Do you have anyplace you can just go out and paddle - even a lake - when you don't have access to surf?

Thanks so much for the replies. Helps a lot. I have a pool nearby and try to swim more often to get my paddling fitness up. Think imma ditching work tomorrow to try what u said.

Atta boy.... that sort of commitment will take you far.

tonylamont wrote:Either option may work but depends on the circumstances. You can turn a board while paddling but it is very ssslllloooowww. Just angle your paddling strokes and lean a bit in the direction you want to go.

You can also put more weight on the back end of your board while laying down to help turn (a semi carve turn perhaps). Depending on your flexibility etc you can arch your back (moving your weight back), focus on putting some weight on your knees (even a slight kneel/lifing up and moving your hips back) or - my preferred method - sliding down the board a bit, turning with your upper body and then sliding back up and starting to paddle.

Of course, putting weight on the back of your board means the nose moves up and your paddling gets slower, and you can lose a bit of stability because your are not 'flat' on the board, so there is a trade off. However, its usually quicker to slide down the board, pivot and slide up than it is to sit up, turn and lay down again.

The trimming turn is better if you have time, because you are continuing with the same process (paddling for the wave) and don't lose that all important speed, so if you can arch your back and continue to paddle (emphasising one side) then that is ideal. But if you need a sudden turn or have time then a slide is useful.

One tip if 'sliding' is to grab your rails, slide down/push the board ahead of you, turn and then pull yourself up without letting go of the board. Because you havent moved your hands, you should pull yourself back up the board to the right spot to start paddling again; and you dont have to mess around adjusting for a few seconds.

I've been surfing for about a month, usually once a week for a couple of hours too. I've found that when the waves are pretty poor it enables me to practise sitting on the board. I try to sped half an hour each time doing that and getting my paddle fitness up. I have found the best way to turn is sit up and use just one arm to turn and hold the rail with the other hand. This then allows me to ly back down into the position i was in ready for the wave.

Hope that helps!

All you paddlers try these couple of tips.When paddling flat, paddle more strongly with the arm on the side of the direction you want to turn to, also lean that side of the board into the water, get strong in your paddling and be in the sweet appdling spot.
If you are sitting outside the break and waiting try twirling your legs underwater, churning them clockwise will turn you to the right anticlockwise to the left.
You can also sit more towards the tail of the board push the rail at the tail down on the side you wish to go to and pull the board around with the opposite hand and keep your balance with the hand on the same side.

Get out there practice and try things over and over and over until you figure out how it works for you