Surfing Waves

Hey all,

Long time lurker first time poster.

I have been surfing semi-religiously for about 1 year now and love the sport. The issue I am having is that I switched boards at the same time that the waves started picking up at torrance beach. I can not catch anything now and couldn't even paddle out 2 days ago when the waves were pushing 6ft.. (such a shame because it was perfect barreling shape) So I dont know if its the board, the waves or that I just sux.

Before I was on a 6' 1" fish, 21" width, 2 3/4" thickness. I talked to a local shaper and got a 6' 1" fish thats 6' 0", 21 3/4 " width and 2 5/8" thickness. He said it will be harder to paddle but I should get more waves. (is this true?) I am 5' 8" and 175 lbs btw.

I got to the point with the old board where I was picking off corners left and right on 2-3 foot surf. No big turns yet but I was starting to pump and getting really confident in my abilities. After the surf picked up and I got the new board, I feel like a helpless newbie again.

My understanding is that with bigger waves you have to paddle harder and faster. My question is, could it be that such little changes in the board could have effected my surfing so drastically? Or is it the 4-6 ft waves that are just harder to paddle into? Also is it harder to paddle into big waves with a thicker / shorter board? I am curious too, whats the "average" progression of someone that has been shortboarding a year? Should I be doing aerials or just learning to angle off?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Cheers

aw

torrancesurfer wrote:Hey all,

Long time lurker first time poster.

Before I was on a 6' 1" fish, 21" width, 2 3/4" thickness. I talked to a local shaper and got a 6' 1" fish thats 6' 0", 21 3/4 " width and 2 5/8" thickness. He said it will be harder to paddle but I should get more waves. (is this true?) I am 5' 8" and 175 lbs.

My understanding is that with bigger waves you have to paddle harder and faster. My question is, could it be that such little changes in the board could have effected my surfing so drastically? Or is it the 4-6 ft waves that are just harder to paddle into? Also is it harder to paddle into big waves with a thicker / shorter board? I am curious too, whats the "average" progression of someone that has been shortboarding a year? Should I be doing aerials or just learning to angle off?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Cheers

aw

Well Torrance , you've chosen to combo yourself, there is a marked difference in the amount water moving around between 2 to 3 foot and 4 to 6 foot and if it is barreling then the power is magnified.
Then you add a board that has less volume not much change but enough to unsettle a newbie who is trying to get out in surf he's not ready for.
Now figure this out you shaper says "harder to paddle but you'll catch more waves" WTF how does he figure that?
I'm curious how come that made sense to you?
You mentioned that you thought that 4 to 6 foot waves might be harder to paddle into, absolutely especially if they are barreling. Being able to angle left and right is a good start but there is a lot more and you are light years away from aerials, they come after you have developed basic skill and the ability to connect them at speed.

Take your new board out in your normal conditions and work with it and get your basics together, maybe you still have your old board try it again see what the differences are!

The real question here is: If you were getting on well with the board you had, why did you feel it necessary to change it?

The board you described as your previous one, is capable of a whole range of maneuvers you haven't mastered yet. Why did you think learning these maneuvers would be easier on a smaller board?

You'll find that a board that suits you can be a bit hit and miss. So when you get a good one, or one you get on well with, hold on to it for as long as you can.

more paddle time...1 year is a good start, but you will have to pay your dues if you expect success. In my opinion at 5'8 175 and a newbie you should shelf that 6 footer and get some foam under you. If you go with a fuller less performance board you will have more fun and learn faster. Do this for a year or so and once you have it down on the fun board, knock the dust off the 6'er and see how it rides in 4-6'.
Keep the stoke!

Hey parrysurf, long time no see. Welcome back!

Whatever the reason for your snafoo, you seam to be getting along pretty well if you are picking off corners left and right.

I find that sometimes a certain swell or day will be more difficult for me, even if it's not for other surfers of my ability. It just goes to show you just how much depth and richness there is to surfing if a certain wave is challenging for me yet forgiving for another. Perhaps you've just hit a few rough personal days. Keep at it and you'll find your struggles only make you a better surfer down the road.

Thanks to everyone for your time / comments, very interesting to hear all your thoughts.

jaffa- the reason it made sense to me that this new board would allow me to catch more waves but be harder to paddle on was because its a bit shorter, which I assume makes it a bit harder to glide through the water, yet it was thicker, thus allowing me to catch the wave easier as I have a bit more buoyancy. I was being sarcastic about the aerials btw . I dont think anyone can surf for one year and be good enough to do aerials. (Maybe Kelly?)

garbarrage - to answer your question, I actually broke that first board in half when I charged for a 4 ft closeout at burnout (shallow beach break spot) I went out immediately and got a this new "custom" shaped board for $350 as it seemed like a decent deal. I guess I was a bit attached to the old board because I ended up spending a healthy amount to get it fixed again. Thus the 2 boards. Plus, I think I want to start collecting. Def. agree about sticking with the "magic" board though, once you find it.

parrysurf- I actually had a 6' 6" foam board that was very very fun to ride. But somehow I broke this too during a session. Is it normal to break 2 boards in your first 10 mo of surfing or am I unlucky? Either way I am going to get a foam board to play around in 1/2 ft surf again I think.

surf doc- I think you hit it right on the dot. I went out Saturday with the new board and I think I had one of the best surf sessions of my life, it was 2-3 foot windswell with some 4 footers, only 3 people out on the entire beach. I paddled out fine and I had 8-10 solid dropins and had a blast with the new board, starting to get the whole "pumping" thing a bit more too. I think I just need to get used to it and not let it get to me if I can't paddle out, it just takes time to develop your paddling form. Definitely agree with your comment about the depth / richness of the sport. Part of why its so addicting to me I think...

Thanks again for everyones comments, really good stuff. I think my takeaway is that I should:

#1 Not be discouraged in more bigger/more consistent surf
#2 Work again more on paddling form (I am going to get a coach)
#3 Get a foamie (to continue to practice padding, have fun on smaller days, and add to my board collection)

aw

Hi Torrance I stand by what I suggested about a board that is harder to paddle is harder to catch waves on!
More floaty usually means easier paddling so I'm confused on your behalf.

Having said that the humble bumble bee, is supposedly (according to physics) not able to fly, so what does it do, it
Flaps it's wings like crazy and it flies! Maybe you paddle harder on a board that is harder to paddle and you catch more waves,
I hope you do and get thoroughly stoked

You sound like a born charger mate, keep at it and you'll get your head around the board. Don't be afraid to call it a pig if it doesn't work out after a while of trying though. Some boards are just like that, can't put your finger on it but something is just "wrong". Someone else may pick up the same board and think its the greatest board ever made.

jaffa1949 - Hmm good point, not sure what logic my shaper is using, I'll ask him next time. Paddling your bawls off seems to be a reoccurring theme in surfing...

garbarrage - appreciate the comments, yeah I agree, I think it takes some time to get used to a board, especially as a newbie but I definitely will call it a pig (lol im going to start using that from now on, never heard that term here in cali before) if and when that time comes.

Cheers fellas!

aw

Does that include international shipping. If so, you have xcel beat on price in europe anyway. If the quality is the same well..... a good product will always sell, if the price is right.

I have been surfing for a month over year, and for the last three months have been surfing every day, mostly twice a day. I absolutely love this sport, and can roundhouse, laidback snap, carve, get barrelled and drive down the line whenever surfing waves of consequence. I can not land airs, but am trying to learn how to stick them. I surf a 5'8 performance board with 25 litres and am 15 yrs old.

Urlocalkook wrote:I have been surfing for a month over year, and for the last three months have been surfing every day, mostly twice a day. I absolutely love this sport, and can roundhouse, laidback snap, carve, get barrelled and drive down the line whenever surfing waves of consequence. I can not land airs, but am trying to learn how to stick them. I surf a 5'8 performance board with 25 litres and am 15 yrs old.

Awesome....you should go pro.