Surfing Waves

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2012 1:56 am**

When I turtle or dive duck on my long board, I get pushed back really far.

How do I not loose all that hard work and distance paddling out?

and how do you survive a waves like this (below)....what do you do when it hits? Not planning to go out when they are this big but what is it like?

Thank You.

Posted: **Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:56 am**

Duck diving on a short board is probably the only thing that might work here, needs timing, ability to push deep , great lung power, luck and a good cup of bleach to return your boardshorts to their normal colour afterwards :shock:

If this picture is of the normal Waimea shore break, it will deposit the broken remains of your body back on the sand to be ferried off by the paramedics :lol:

If you are really lucky you only have to carry your ego back to the car park :lol:

Now to address your question, duck diving long boards is quite a skill to get, turtle rolling has more to offer but usually if you can plan your paddle out to use a rip or a channel so much the better, getting out is one of nature's ways of sorting out the pack, seriously if you can't get out it is often an indication that that particular surf is beyond you.
ie A serious day at Waimea means good timing to get through the shorebreak between sets and a lot cannot manage that, so the break is a little safer because of that.

Getting out skills are part of your evolution as a surfer, I have been tossed back many times and on the odd occasion I still get throw ashore :lol: