Surfing Waves

So I've been surfing since around september '10 i think but verrrry occasionally. I would say I've been surfing around 10-20 times over 16 months which depresses me... I can barely ever get in as I have other commitments (dancing 4 times a week, road cycling twice a week, violin, hockey and my GCSE exams at school now) so i'm pretty bummed about that. I live about 12 miles from the closest surf beach (Porthtowan, Cornwall, UK) which doesn't sound far but as a 14 year old i have to rely on other people to get me there so I have to fit around them. (I can't wait till i'm old enough to drive myself there!)

So anyway here is my dilemma- the old 'green wave' whinge:
-I can stand up on white water pretty easily but i find it boring cos you cant turn on it
-In the summer I went to a week long surf school where i found i improved a bit- and I caught two clean unbroken waves consecutively and trimmed across them on my forehand and backhand (once each) i basically had no idea what happened- it just did! so i think that the actual standard of my surfing isn't what is stopping me from surfing the green waves- i believe it is my inability to paddle! both of those waves the surf instructor was behind me and shoved the back of my board as well as me paddling so i was going quick enough.
Im a young girl- small for my age anyway (im 14 and according to a sketchy assessment next to my Dad about 5'4'', and 45kg) i can do about 10 man pressups and i can pop up easily but i just find i struggle with A) getting out back for the green waves B) paddling for them
do you think its because im a weakling that im having trouble or anything else?

My Dads best friend is a custom shaper and he made me a board cheaply for me so i dont think thats the case, ill attach a picture, its 6'4''

i would say its neither weakling or the board, but more the technique. i find that i sometimes have to throw my weight forward as im about to fall off the back of the wave. but its difficult to say what the exact issue is without watching you try to catch them. i spent the whole summer trying to get them, and one you have the ability to its easy. try starting to paddle earlier than you would with white waves, then make sure you are as far forward as possible (as you can always arch your back to bring the weight back from the nose to stop yourself nose diving) and don't give up. just keep trying to power your way onto those waves. somebody else might have a good tip, but as far as i am aware there isnt much more you can do that to practice and then it will click.

Regards

Tj

Good advice from Toj.

To add to it, try to place yourself on your board so far forward that you must arch your back while paddling to stop you digging your nose, so much so that if you stop paddling without readjusting then you will sink the front. When the wave gets to you, lean your head forward for that extra tilt and give it as much power as possible.

Also, you probably don't, but do not be tempted to use both arms in a butterfly stroke, stick to crawl from start to finish

Hi there...just to start off, I think your board looks awesome by the way..so lucky to have a custom board already!

Don't get too Down hearted on the green wave thing......I still struggle to get out the back on big days. I reckon you will be ok with 3 ft waves. I remember being in cornwall this summer and it was 8 ft....I couldn't get out the back...I still had a great time though as you can always catch reforms.

On the catching green waves its not that you are a weakling at all.....it's all practice and working out what works for you...what works for me is long smooth strokes, more like pulling myself through the water rather then frantic million miles an hour thrashing about.....
Also another thing I found is you feel yourself about to nosedive, getcyour hands back to the bottom of your ribs, as if about tp pop up. This shifts your weight back a lot to the back of the board and a lot of the time you will actually be able to pop up.

Most of all don't give up....in a few years you will probably be surfing rings round most of us!

thank you for all the advice! yeah i haven't been arching my back or anything so that's probably why.. when i next get in (hopefully soon) i will try that!

jasedrummer wrote:
Hi there...just to start off, I think your board looks awesome by the way..so lucky to have a custom board already!

Thanks! I wouldn't of if i had to pay full price though- its just he made it for me £250 pounds off! yeww