Surfing Waves

Hi I hope someone can give me some wisdom.

My brother gave me his retro fish (6"4') and took me surfing for the very first time. Hes a pretty seasoned surfer but not a very good teacher. I did a lot of research and knew what to do... or at least I thought. I spent 3hours practically drowning trying to get to the line up. I know as beginners I should be riding white water but the waves where I live are either shore breaks or waves braking a bit farther out.

Long story short. After my first session I was very discouraged but I'm hooked. I've read quite a few of the posts on this forum and ideally I should get a longboard and get some surf lessons. Sadly, I have no way to afford surf lessons(brother has left for college). The best I can do is save up for a longboard for next summer, but my brother has told me longboards are much harder to paddle out. Something about the size and waves breaking on my face, which is exactly whats happening with the board he gave me. I'm not sure whether I should invest on a longboard or proper lessons.

Thank you for your time. I apologize for the long read.

I don't think a longboard is going to be harder to paddle out than your fish - just the opposite. Longboards are generally easier to paddle than shorter boards. The only limited respect in which a shortboard is easier is that you can duck dive a shortboard. But that's an advanced technique - not a reason to try to learn on a shortboard. For that reason, it may be a bit easier for an advanced surfer to get outside on a shortboard, but not a beginner. In short, like everyone says, try to find a cheap used longboard. It will be a lot easier to learn on than a fish.

And definitely don't beat yourself up about getting outside. Unless you are a super powerful swimmer or in very small waves, everyone has difficulty paddling out at first. It took me at least 10 sessions before I could get outside in average-sized waves, and I still can't get outside on some bigger days after nearly a year of surfing. Part of it is developing paddling technique, core strength and fitness, part of it is learning to watch the waves and learn where and when to paddle out. If you can't make it outside, try to ride broken waves on the inside - there should be some of those somewhere that aren't total shorebreak (like people say, you really should learn to ride white water first). If you can't get outside and everything inside is dumping shorebreak that is too dangerous to ride, then you probably should wait for a smaller day.

And you should definitely avoid trying to paddle out to a line-up fun of experienced surfers until you have some basics down. They will appreciate it and you will likely save yourself having to deal with an unpleasant vibe. Stay a ways down the beach or find an uncrowded, beginner-friendly break.

Good luck.

Thank you tony. I've just begun reading about wave sets and going in between breaking waves. I was wondering, how would you go over a broken wave that you just can't go over? Turtle roll perhaps?

If its not much trouble how much should I be looking to spend on a used longboard? A small surfshop near here has a board up for sale around 540USD.

Thanks again.

Re: getting through broken waves, the general rule is that if you can push up and have the whitewater go between you and the board, that is preferable to turtling. If the whitewater is too tall to do that, then turtle roll. Check out the Surf Simply podcast for turtling technique (posted on this board before). It's the best IMO.

As far as longboard prices, $540 sounds like a bit high for a used beginner board. That may be an entirely fair price depending on the model, condition, etc. but IMO you shouldn't have to spend that much to find something adequate to learn on.

You can get a "learner" type board like an NSP or BIC - a used one of those should be much cheaper than $540. You could also get a "real" poly or epoxy board. Poly boards are probably a bit cheaper than good epoxy boards on average. I would recommend the latter if you are a beginner as they are more durable, but in either case you should be able to get a used longboard for $500 or less if you look around long enough - maybe even as low as $300-400 depending on where you live and how patient you are. I recently bought a barely-used poly 9'4"for $450. Repaired dings, etc are OK as long as it is watertight and not delaminating.

FatAl,
you don't need lessons. Just get in the water frequently and regularly, read some books, and watch more experienced surfers very closely.

Ja, I'd like to see you on a longboard. Maybe sell the board you have and by a used longboard. Maybe you can trade your board as an even swap with another surfer that is ready to leave his longboard for a short board.
stay stoked!
billie

Hi FatAl, welcome to Surfing Waves.tonylamont's given you good summary there.

You'll always hear that a longboard is the best choice of board to learn on here on this forum. If you can't afford one, hey, you've still got a board that you can get out on regularly and practice. Many people start surfing on a shorter board.

Each time you go out, it will get easier and easier to make it out to the lineup, but if you continue to have problems and don't seem to be improving at all, billie's advice about a swap or a trade is sound.

I've gone out again and although I wasn't able to get out I think I did a bit better with the "push up" technique. And Ive seen the Surf Simply videos and I agree they help a lot. Thank you tonylamont

billie_morini I'd rather not sell the board simply because I dont think I would be able to get much. It has many pressure dings and repaired dings.

surf patrol thank you for the advice. I think for now I will just try o get better on the board I have and maybe get a longboard for next summer.

Thank you all

Hello everyone!

So I've been out a few more times out with no good news, but its not all bad. I got paddling and sitting down... somewhat. When sitting I still slide off... I hope that gets better with time. Well my question this time is to ask if I'm on the right track.

Everyday that I come home without zero waves under my belt is very discouraging. But my mind set for now is just to get paddling, sitting and such down - the basics. Sometimes when everything falls into place I catch an unbroken wave but I can't seem to pop up. Either I take too long or I nose dive.

I'm I on the right track? Any additional advices??

FatAl wrote:Hello everyone!

Sometimes when everything falls into place I catch an unbroken wave but I can't seem to pop up. Either I take too long or I nose dive.

I'm I on the right track? Any additional advices??

Don't worry, everyone goes through this trying to catch unbroken waves - you may seem to catch them, but then you pearl, or can't pop up in time, or the wave passes you by, etc. The timing / technique is one of the hardest things to get and everyone has their own particular flavor of screwing up. I had (and still sometimes have) a problem with pearling and spectacular face-plants, especially on more powerful waves.

You may be nose diving because you are (1) catching waves too late, (2) not be paddling fast enough, (3) too far forward on the board, or (4) not arching your back.I would imagine getting this combination right is even harder on a shorter board.

If you are taking too long popping up, work on your technique out of water. One problem I had was I was starting with my hands too far forward - they should be down under your ribs, not your shoulders. Make sure you can do this reliably and end up in a proper stance, with your feet spread shoulder-width and centered on the stringer, no going to your knees first, etc.

Assuming your pop-up technique is good, just keep trying to catch waves and focus on your technique. Make sure you start far enough out that you aren't catching the wave too late, right as it crashes. Make sure you are getting get 5 or so strong paddles before the wave and paddling HARD (IMO paddling with POWER is more important than paddling fast). Be sure you are far enough forward on the board (but not too far!). And be sure to ARCH YOUR BACK while paddling! (That was my biggest problem).

There are a lot of elements to put together, but if you are pearling or missing waves it is likely one or a combination of these things. Focus on doing each one right, and practice! You will soon be riding waves.

tonylamont wrote:
Assuming your pop-up technique is good, just keep trying to catch waves and focus on your technique. Make sure you start far enough out that you aren't catching the wave too late, right as it crashes. Make sure you are getting get 5 or so strong paddles before the wave and paddling HARD (IMO paddling with POWER is more important than paddling fast). Be sure you are far enough forward on the board (but not too far!). And be sure to ARCH YOUR BACK while paddling! (That was my biggest problem).

There are a lot of elements to put together, but if you are pearling or missing waves it is likely one or a combination of these things. Focus on doing each one right, and practice! You will soon be riding waves.

I've been doing pop up drills every single day, on land I can do it pretty well. Its just whenever I get into the water everything goes wrong. I think I might have the same problem with arching my back. I will definitely work on that. And I've been hitting the gym doing some work on upper body to try to get better paddling.

Quick question is it normal to have a hard time controlling the board as a beginner? I often look like an idiot falling off while paddling out or just sitting, while to others it seems like second nature.

Thanks for your advices I'll try to keep all of them in mind next time I go out.

FatAl wrote:Quick question is it normal to have a hard time controlling the board as a beginner? I often look like an idiot falling off while paddling out or just sitting, while to others it seems like second nature.

I'm a beginner too, and yeah - it's normal. I'm very comfortable and stable on my board now...but it's a 9' longboard. I tried a friend's 6'6 fish the other day and at first I was as unstable on it as you describe. I dialed in pretty quick, enough to paddle decently, but didn't come anywhere close to catching a wave with it. I can't imagine how much more frustrating it would have been to try to learn on that board.

FatAl wrote:Hello everyone!

So I've been out a few more times out with no good news, but its not all bad. I got paddling and sitting down... somewhat. When sitting I still slide off... I hope that gets better with time. Well my question this time is to ask if I'm on the right track.

Everyday that I come home without zero waves under my belt is very discouraging. But my mind set for now is just to get paddling, sitting and such down - the basics. Sometimes when everything falls into place I catch an unbroken wave but I can't seem to pop up. Either I take too long or I nose dive.

I'm I on the right track? Any additional advices??

I'm wondering whether you are using any or enough wax or wax on the right parts of the board, or that you may be sitting too far back on the board, the nose of the board should not be pointing too high as each wave disturbance will cause it to act like a great greased cork between your legs all keen to pop out.
the only other thing is, are you using sun screen on your legs

RonG wrote:I'm a beginner too, and yeah - it's normal. I'm very comfortable and stable on my board now...but it's a 9' longboard. I tried a friend's 6'6 fish the other day and at first I was as unstable on it as you describe. I dialed in pretty quick, enough to paddle decently, but didn't come anywhere close to catching a wave with it. I can't imagine how much more frustrating it would have been to try to learn on that board.

Thank you! I'm a bit relieved. Yes its very frustrating and the bad waves around here doesnt help.

jaffa1949 wrote:I'm wondering whether you are using any or enough wax or wax on the right parts of the board, or that you may be sitting too far back on the board, the nose of the board should not be pointing too high as each wave disturbance will cause it to act like a great greased cork between your legs all keen to pop out.
the only other thing is, are you using sun screen on your legs

Well I'm certain its not the wax...I have wax all over the board and I try to wax before every session. I think it might be where I'm sitting. And as far as sun screen, I never use any. I really should tough.