Surfing Waves

Hey guys, first time posting on the board Been surfing for about 4 months when we're not dealing with summer flats down here in SFL.

Anyway, (Hurricane) Irene just passed by us in West Palm Beach, and the surf has been WAY UP. Like we're probably gonna have double overhead plus tomorrow. Which I'm not going out in for obvious reasons But I was out on Wednesday and Surfline forecast be damned, we were getting chest-high at the local pier (Lake Worth). Problem was, I couldn't push past the break with my funboard. No matter how hard I swam I couldn't get past it more than three times, which was exhausting, and I can't seem to duckdive this damn board.

I'm in pretty good shape, do curls, pushups, pullups every other day. And I'm 165 lbs, 6'0". But the board is a 7'0"x21"x2.7" Orion shaped by Greg Geiselman, and I'm thinking it might just be too wide and thick to dive. Seriously, I've watched lots of videos and I push on her but she won't give. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE this board and surfing consumes my every waking thought, but is this board just meant for fun rides on stomach-high and lower? I've had this problem before in Jaxville with same height waves, but not when it's mushy down here and smaller.

Surf's gonna be up for like 3days and I really wanna get out, so any tips on diving would be helpful. Since I can get up and ride and starting to turn, I'm thinking of like a 6'0"x18"x2 1/4" for my next board (maybe soon) so those suggestions are appreciated too Thanks and sorry for the long post!

It is very frustrating, but take consolation that even with fantastic duck-diving it is still really hard to beat low period beach-break breakers. They are the bane of my life, especially with onshore winds (which describes the conditions at my local 70% of the time^^).

Duckdiving is only beneficial if you can get deep enough to let the board pass underneath the breaker. I would forget it on big swells and just paddle as fast as possible and push up when a wave comes to you (or barrel roll if it is a big one).

Work on paddle technique, I heard that it is best to lift your elbows high and do most of the work with the elbows as opposed to the shoulder. Put most of the power into the start of the stroke, being fairly relaxed for the followthrough. Don't dig too deep as that applies more leverage against you.

Lastly it is probably common knowledge, but when I am pushed back by a wave I dig my arms in really deep for a second as an anchor to stop myself moving back.


Even if it is big, get out! It is a good work-out, and might dispel some of the fear . If the worst comes to the worst you wont get out and can ride the breakers and smaller inside waves.


p.s. that board is very small and will be a big transition. I am a meagre 153 or 154 lb, 6'2" and I duck dived my old nsp 6'6" x 20" x 2 7/16" fine. I can even duck dive my 6'4" x 20 1/2" x 2 5/8" rocket fish, although it is a lot harder (it is very corky/ thickly foiled).

I would look for a shortboard around 6'6 to begin with, I would say no smaller than 6'4 x 20 x 2 1/2.

Great advice as always from Ricky. I'll sound like a broken record again and give my usual advise for paddling faster- mind you feet! I figure they hang off the back of your 7ft board, keep them together and pointed- when they're out wide it slows you down. Also make sure you're far forward on the board and arching your back.

Duck diving is an art and not just about brute strength, I wouldn't be too hard on yourself for having trouble in hurricane weather after surfing for 4 months. The best thing to do IMO is stick with the board that you have now as it seems to be working for you in every other way and put your time in. While you're skills are still developing, it makes sense to control everything you can, and keeping your equipment consistent is one way to do that. Dropping to a 6ft board will be a huge challenge.

I don't know if this is a "proper technique" but I have found that sometimes towing the board, and just going for a swim works. Basically, I just dive under the waves, sans board, and swim until I get past the whitewater. I have a 9' longboard and I can certainly understand your pain...no duck diving my plank! Another method you may want to consider is the turtle-roll

Anchoring the board (ditching and diving deep) is another form of ditching the board, and you may catch flak for it. But I do think it has it's time and place, like when you're caught inside and the lip of a monster is coming right down on your head, in that instance you'll get thrashed no matter what might as well put some distance between you and your board just better make sure nobody is around you. I wouldn't practice this routinely as a way to get out back, it's a hail mary for when you're in serious trouble.

If sitting further forward on the board and pushing down on the tip isn't doing it, I'd say turtle-roll through the smaller waves and let go and use the leash through the closer-breaking and larger waves. Unless you are surfing Jaws or Waimea, or anywhere similar, the board on the leash should not pull or drag you too far back before it is pulled from the wave. Dive deep, and swim through... The board should come back to you. Last week I bought myself a 7'7 Funboard. Beautiful, with green and white designs. At 54, I have decided to get back into the sea again after pretty much a dry season since my teenage years in the 70s... Aloha.

Welcome to the forum Charles1960.

Charles1960 wrote:If sitting further forward on the board and pushing down on the tip isn't doing it, I'd say turtle-roll through the smaller waves and let go and use the leash through the closer-breaking and larger waves.

Welcome...but dont let go and use the leash (please)