Surfing Waves

I am a beginner surfer. I try to make it to the beach about once a week (I live about 40 miles away). I went today and I got very frustrated. I can stand on the board a lot more often now. Usually I pop up, although my front foot seems to drag its way instead of lift, but I think that might be a flexibility issue of mine, but it still works. I have two problems however. I find it hard to pop up whilst getting my front foot where I want it. The effort of popping up/balancing/keeping momentum with the wave seems to stop me and often my foot will end up to the side of the centre line, and when it does I will have to quickly readjust or I will wipeout. I practice at home popping up in the dry, and I can get my foot in the centre all the time, but popping up in the sea feels A LOT different. Is this a common problem? How do I overcome it?

Also, when I have succesfully stood up, I also notice that almost all the time I will ride the wave for about ten meters, and then the wave will just pass on without me. I thought I might be putting too much weight on the tail, so I tried balancing and centering my weight but it did the same thing. I also tried shiting more weight to the nose, but it still didn't help. I am wondering whether I just need to catch bigger waves? The ones I was practicing on were tiny ones as I found them more stable and easier to stand up on. I am a six foot guy and keep in good shape (I am 22). My board is about 7'6''. Maybe I just need a bigger board to learn on?
I really want to get good! What really frustrated me was seeing everyone else managing to do it so effortlessly, and I am struggling and putting everything into it and progressing so slowly. As I said, I am very athletic and also have been skateboarding for about 8 years, so in fitness and balance perspectives I should be fine for surfing. I also have been doing yoga for 2 years. I figured its all about technique or that my body/back and hips are just not designed for surfing . Any help will be appreciated.

As a novice, dont know how qualified I am to give advice,but one thing that helped me alot, apart from a 9'6" board, is I use to grab the rails when I popped up which always caused me balance and other issues. Since I've gotten into the habit of pushing off with hands on the top of the board, it has all seemed to have fallen into place alot better. Just a suggestion, maybe check your hand placement. And also as has been stated numerous times on these posts maybe consider a larger board. Keep at it and any day in the water is a good one

APH,

You summed it up well in your first sentence...you are a beginner surfer. Surfing takes longer to progress at than any other board sport (or any other sport I know of). Don't be discouraged, just keep doing it over and over again. I remember being at that same frustrating stage 20 years ago. Most of those you see surfing effortlessly started as kids and have been doing it for 10-20 years. Watch little things they do and imitate them. One move that might help is giving a little "hop" on the board to keep up your speed (the huntington hop). It's sounds like the waves are pretty small so they may just be fizzling out no matter what you do.

Scientist say mastery usually comes after one has participated at an activity for 10,000 hours! You probably have a long way to go. Just enjoy it at each stage.

-Wavecation

Reading your post jward, it sounds to me like you may be standing up too early. Maybe take a few extra strokes until you feel yourself really drop into the wave before you pop up. you may also find the board is more stable too as you'll be moving faster.

Wavecation is right... It's all about time and milage. You'll get there. Although I'd wager skating is the hardest boardsport. I still suck at that stuff after two decades.

If your only surfing once a week, my advice would be to just longboard. Sell the fun board and get a classic 9 foot log. Your learning curve will be much more enjoyable.

I am facing the same problem after switching to a shortboard. I could pop up but after that, my board just stop moving. Funny thing is, if i don't pop up and kept lying on my board, my board will continue moving. Pop up for me is like stepping on brakes!

I am not sure exactly what has gone wrong but i did notice often i am popping up at the trough of the wave, Did i pop up too late? Am i supposed to pop up at the top of the wave? Or was i not able to swing my front foot up far enough (too much weight on the aft)?

Help is much appreciated. Thanks!!

what sizes for you and your board? are you angling down the line or riding straight down the face?

behindThePeak wrote:what sizes for you and your board? are you angling down the line or riding straight down the face?

I am 62kg and riding a 5'8" board (about 31 ltr in volume). I would ride straight down the wave cos i find it easier to catch a wave this way. Yesterday, i took the time to observe where my front foot lands on the board and realized that it landed near the middle of the board and i always ended up in posture with my butt close to my back foot. Do you think i need to get my front foot further up the board and shifting my hip forward?

Why not try to do some cross stepping or, just shuffling towards the nose of the board a little?
Failing that, stay low, squat down and lean forward to drive your center of gravity more forward.

One mistake beginners often make is to 'stand up' yes you are supposed to pop up, but it doesn't mean stand tall and regid like a pole. Squat down really helps.

jwardmagic wrote: I also tried shiting more weight to the nose, but it still didn't help. .

Couldn't help but laugh after that line.

I think behindthepeak has the right idea and it sounds like you're popping up as soon as you feel the wave passing underneath you, but before it really picks you up.

Here's what I see new surfers do: they see a wave coming, paddle like crazy as soon as they see it and by the time it's on top of them they are exausted and their paddle fizzles out right when it's needed most. Line yourself up, take 3 or 4 soft strokes to break momentum as the wave approaches and use these strokes to help you angle your board either right or left as you look over your shoulder. Then when you feel the wave underneath lifting up the back of your board, that's when you dig and put in your 2 or 3 hard strokes to angle away from the pitching peak and move down that face. Start slow, break momentum, then as you start going downhill paddle like crazy. I think then you'll find the pop-up easier as well.