Falling backwards when catching a wave

[formanproject]

Hello,

I just started surfing this summer, and so far have progressed to the point where I am able to pretty much stand and ride unbroken waves straight into shore. However, I find that when catching unbroken waves, sometimes (though not always) I feel like I pick up speed going straight and lose my balance, falling backwards. I'm assuming this is because while picking up speed dropping down the wave, I am attempting to slow myself down by putting my weight on my back foot - however, this causes me to send the board forward while sending myself backwards, falling off the board.


My question is this - I would like to start riding these waves parallel to shore, rather than taking them straight. For learning how to do this, should I be starting at an angle? I feel starting straight like I have been doing is what is causing me to pick up too much speed and that is my downfall. However, starting sideways causes me to have trouble catching the wave.

What is the best way to approach this?

Thanks!

[Liquid Peace]

You could start at an angle but you will still need to learn how to make your bottom turn. Your board should start at a slight angle. One it helps you start going in the right direction & it lets other surfer's know which way you intend to go.That back foot has to be planted soild and pushed down, mostly with weight displacement via the hip. Don't forget that front foot still has to be balanced with a comfortable base, cause if all the weight is on the back foot you will do a wheelie and possible lose your board forward. It also sounds like you are not getting into the wave fast enough. On those last few paddles you really need to dig, you should feel the wave tugging you in. Go down the face then dig that back foot in and turn it towards the face of the wave. That will get you going parallel, along the face of the wave, repeat process along the entire length of the wave.
You are very close!

[formanproject]

Yeah... it definitely sounds like i'm putting too much weight on my back foot, which is causing me to wheelie, losing my balance. I will keep that in mind the next time I go out. When dropping down the wave, to get into the parallel position, am I supposed to perform a carving turn, or am I going to trim? I'm trying not to lose the wave if I put too much weight on my back foot.

[tony g]

Try to be smooth when you catch the wave. I like to take off in the more criticle part of the wave so I do not have to paddle as hard, but this is a little more difficult. If you are more on the shoulder you will need to paddle hard to get your board into the wave. As far as pushing to hard on your back foot, that should not make you lose your balance, but leaning back will. I put as much pressure as needed on my back foot to keep the board from pearling and still make the drop. The important thing is to keep your center of balance over the board, and not lean back. A good balance board can help you build muscle memory so this will not be a problem for you. It is true if you push so hard on the tail of your board you will stall. Keep practicing and you will get it!


Good luck!

[Verde]

Heres a little trick I learned from watching other surfers. When you are about to catch a wave, right before you pop up with both hand on the deck already, put a little extra weight one hand so you turn down the line a bit. That way when you pop up you are going down the face of the wave at an angle instead of shooting straight down the face. Hope this makes sense and I hope it helps! good luck dude!

[rguaspari]

In that matter i found these vids to be really helpfull:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mY3TLF7Qu4c - Anled take off

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I62X7kgzivw

[jay32]

In that matter i found these vids to be really helpfull:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mY3TLF7Qu4c - Anled take off

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I62X7kgzivw

Very helpfull vids.
Nice 1