Surfing Waves

A mate of mine (who has been surfing for 30 odd years) has been reading. Apparently his latest book is suggesting that surf schools are just a money grabbing franchise that just try and get you to stand up on a big floaty block of foam, then charge you more to unlearn that and relearn how to control a board.

The theory is that in the early days of surfing, the kids started on wooden body boards and learnt the skills of catching waves, reading waves, knowing where the power in the wave is, sea safety and control. then as they got better they progressed up from short boards to long boards.

now a surf instructor i saw in Hong Kong (self taught) said that he encourages people to just surf and control the board staying prone for the first few times, then when you can control board, then work on standing.

what's everybodys thoughts?

do i pay out for some improver lessons, of wrap up my board and get on the bodyboard?!?!?!

discuss.

Morning Batty, It's morning here at least.
I think your friend is right in a lot of cases the schools are there to give a once in a lifetime surf experience. a stand up white water ride to the beach, and their teaching is aimed entirely at that.Their satisfied customer then goes back to middle European or the mid west of America, saying "Hey Ma I'm a surfer now" and thinking "How hard was that?"
MMMMM.
If you look at this forum you will see some of the posters have grasped the idea that there is more to surfing than that.
They are still a little misinformed as they begin to think that being able to turn a little and go across the face of a wave makes them intermediate surfers. IMO they need to have more than that.

The wooden body board "Paipo" was the way to do just what you suggest.
Learn about waves how to catch them ,read them and ride them, all good. The wooden board story was not a theory it was the reality.
The modern body board is a reasonable substitute for that, but then some people never stand up for themselves after that. That's OK too.

There was a hierarchy at good breaks and it was often physically enforced that you did get to be in that break until you had proven yourself.
There were no leg ropes swimming and water survival skills were necessary.

But there is one teacher that doesn't cost anything and only teaches the right way . Personal watertime.
Use a body board sometimes, to scope and understand a break but mostly get on the board you choose and ride , ride ride. Improvement and self correction will happen.
Surf with your experienced mate get him to offer advice.