Surfing Waves

hey all, have seen a lot of guys having a great time pulling into closeouts.... just wondering whats best to be safe, fall straight down and try go under the wave? fall and tuck into a ball? jump off the back??

happy surfing everyone

Fall backwards off the board, kicking the board out in front of you, and have your body land flat just on the wave side of the trough. The wave will tend to carry your board forward, which is why you kick it out in front, and the part of the wave just uphill from the trough will give you a bit of a cushion to hit and you're not super likely to get sucked over the falls.

At least that's what I read in an old surf magazine.

Forage wrote:Fall backwards off the board, kicking the board out in front of you, and have your body land flat just on the wave side of the trough. The wave will tend to carry your board forward, which is why you kick it out in front, and the part of the wave just uphill from the trough will give you a bit of a cushion to hit and you're not super likely to get sucked over the falls.

At least that's what I read in an old surf magazine.

good call. but watch kicking your board out, especially if its crowded so you dont knock someones head off x)

Don't throw or push away your board unless it is absolutely necessary.
Two photos here, first is for guys who like pulling into closeouts, the take it like a rat technique, teaches courage to face the barrel and survive without bailing.
This another way to deal with a closeout, seriously if you have to bail it needs to be just that serious if the guy in the second shot had bailed he would have taken out the guy paddling out.
A really old fashioned way is to learn the flickout, crank a hard bottom turn and follow through to verticality and drive flick your board up and over the face of the wave. Before leashes it was an important move for your survival in the surf. Everyone knew to duck

BTW from today's session.

BIG AIRS!!!!!!!!!!!!