Surfing Waves

Aloha guys!

I just moved to Honolulu about 5 months ago because I was lucky enough to land a job out here! I have always been an ocean addict - I got my open water diver cert. when I was just 14 years old, I studied marine science and policy in college, and now, even my job revolves around protecting marine resources! One thing I have yet to do is learn to surf. I have always been fascinated by the sport, always been jealous of the guys (and girls) out there that can do it, and now I just happen to live in the location where the sport was actually born. I think it's time.

I am looking to buy a board that I can learn on. I have about $525 I got for Christmas to splurge on it, and I have been told by numerous people to get a 9'0 longboard and that HIC was a really good Hawaiian brand. I am about 5'4" and 125 lbs. I am pretty fit, but in the few times I've actually paddled out, I got tired pretty quickly. So I need something that will move fast enough to actually catch the wave before I can attempt to stand up. Eventually I'd like to be able to surf on a shortboard, but I'm not even concerned about that at this point. Really, I just want to learn the basics and get strong enough to be confident in the water. I've always been comfortable in the ocean, but I know surfing is a different beast.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. Just looking for some genuine advice on getting started.

Mahalo!
Chelsey

Aloha,
you need a 9-foot longboard. With practice and exercise, you will achieve everything you claim to want.

The longer the board, the greater potential to go fast(er). Think "streamlining." The fact that your fatiguing quickly says you need to develop more stamina and strength.

Buy it used to save money.

I just returned from HI and the paddle-outs there will make anyone tired, some of the places I surfed were 1/2 mile out. Agree with previous post, the more you make the paddle; the easier it will become! Waikiki is an awesome place to learn, especially the clean days. There are even spots on the North Shore that offer user friendly waves-Puenta Pt..

Buying a board is tricky, rent a few 1st, Hawaii Surfboard Rentals is a great place to rent several boards to find out what you like, talk to Dan and tell him Liquid Peace referred you to him. He is a cool dude who knows the island, tell him what you are trying to do and he will help you out!

Girl, I think you are on the right path. I think a 9' long board will do great for you and with $525 you should be able to get a pretty decent quality board(used). Dont worry about the fitness, that will come and being young as you are it will come very quickly. I think the key to begining surfing is quantity. Get out there as often as you can, even if its just for an hour sesssion and just a few waves. The more you are out there the better you will become and more importantly the fun factor will start to dominate your life. (wait, maybe thats me, anyway....)
I left the islands for 20 years and came back just to surf again. After 20 years of no surfing I kinda had to learn again. I think the best time to get out there and learn is the early morning "dawn patrols". For me it was better due to the fact it was less crowded, less chop in the water, no wind and I found the "guys' in the water a whole lot more helpful and maybe even a bit more patient with me. After a week or so of regular early moring surfs the local guys took me in and really helped with my surfing. Before I knew it the guys were letting me have waves all to myself and giving advice etc.. My learning "dawn patrols" were in Maui a few years ago and me and all those guys are still good friends. Now a days they fly to Honolulu and surf with me and I am the one giving the local/wave advice now. Regardless, I think its best to start off at a break close to home (so you can go frequently), go early and often, and stay with the same break until you are a fluent enough surfer to venture out to all of Hawaii's great surf spots and not put yourself or others in danger.
Welcome to Hawaii and the life long passion of surfing..........

Thanks for all the advice, guys! I live literally 3 streets inland from the Waikiki beaches, so I will definitely start out there. I like the idea of the early dawn patrols as there are definitely a lot less people out at that time. I've taken lessons both on Maui and in Australia, but of course those boards were like 10+ foot long foam boards! Anyway, I'll do some more research and go to some different shops and talk to some people. Really excited (or should I say "stoked") to get started!!

Thanks again!