Want to Learn to Surf? 10 Things You Must Know!

[tony g]

Want to Learn How To Surf? 10 Things You Must Know Before You Start!
By Tony N Gile

Well here is my list for the top 10 things every beginner surfer must know before paddling out!

1. Choose the right surfboard & wetsuit!

2. Go to the right spot.

3. Go surfing on the right day.

4. Know what rip currents are and how to get out of them.

5. Know about localism.

6. Know how to catch a wave.

7. Know how to stand up on your surfboard.

8. Know how to make it outside (beyond the breaking waves into the green water).

9. Know some of the unwritten rules of the line up.

10.Have fun surfing is a blast!


1. Choose the right surfboard & wetsuit

Well you do not want to start on a super thin high performance short board, or any short board for that matter. When you are learning you need to start on a surfboard that has some width and thickness to it, yes a long board. How long depends on a how big you are, the bigger the guy the bigger the board should be. Think of it in steps. If you do not want to be a longboarder that's okay, but you will get allot better faster if you use the long board as a tool to get the basics down. You then can scale down in size as you progress. A short board is super wobbly and unstable and their is way to much going on out their when you are first learning to have the added difficulty of un-stability as well. Start on a big board and you will learn faster, ride more waves, ride the waves you do catch further, and have more fun! Along with the right surfboard is the right wetsuit. You will also want to check with your local surf shop about the right wetsuit thickness for your area. Your average water temperature will determine what wetsuit thickness you should purchase or rent. You can also ask the local surfers what they wear.

2. Go to the right spot!

You will want to go to a beginner friendly surf spot. If you do not know of one ask your local surf shop where the beginner friendly spots are. I would even call the good surf shops in your area before you go for a daily check, for the weather conditions can make a beginner friendly spot into a dangerous place quickly. Stay away from heavy shore break beaches, reef breaks, point breaks. You want a mellow sandy bottom spot with slow peeling mushy waves, and not to many people out. You want to learn to surf, not get beat up and held down and thrashed around. Do your homework and this can make the difference in having a good first experience or a bad one!

3. Go surfing on the right day!

As mentioned above every day is different you need to respect the ocean. It may be your first day off in a month, but the current conditions are 14' W swells @ 13 seconds. Unless you are surfing a protected cove that is blocking most of that swell and does not have rip currents, you should wait for a better day! You want to be safe. When the surf is big their is allot more water moving around, rip currents are usually stronger, it is allot more dangerous, as well as difficult to learn because you are fighting just being out there. Again check with your local surf shop, or check your local surf report. Some surf shops have a surf report right on their websites.

4. Know what rip currents are and how to get out of them.

A Rip Current is a strong narrow current heading from shore back out to sea. Returning the water seaward that is pushed in from the waves, wind, and the tide. If you get caught in a rip current, don't panic, it wastes energy. Do not paddle directly against it, you will get exhausted. You want to paddle parallel to the shore where you see the waves pushing in, to get out of a rip. Most rip currents are not very wide, so by paddling parallel to shore you should be able to paddle out of it. Remain calm, you want to be able to hold your breath at any given time while out in the ocean. You never know when a wave could break on you, or in front of you. You will not be able to hold your breath long while panicking, so remember stay calm and work with the ocean not against it. Sometimes (with strong rip currents) you may have to go out with the rip into deeper water, where the balance is restored and the pulling current subsides.You then can paddle parallel to shore and work your way in. Remember do not fight the ocean, try to work with it. The ocean is bigger than all of us.



Signs of a Rip Current:

1. Waves not fully breaking in the rip (usually deeper in the rip because it is a channel for water to head seaward) and the water seems to be choppy and headed back out to sea.

2. You may see objects or other surfers being pulled out to sea rapidly with little or no effort.

3. A change in water color within the rip. It may be murkier from sediment, or greener from depth.

4. Sometimes you will not see the signs of a rip current and still get caught in one. Knowing what to do if you are caught in a rip current can save your life!



5. Know a little about local ism.

Like with life, or even driving on the freeway, surfing has its dark side! Surfers that surf the same spots a lot start to feel like that spot is theirs. They like to take a sense of ownership of the spot, and feel like they should get all, or most of the waves out there, and new people who show up are considered the intruders. Localism may show itself as someone yelling at you, dropping in on you, to flattening your tires, to waxing your windshield, or even throwing your shoes, or back pack in the water, and many other ways like these. What you can do about it?

1. Be respectful to the locals. If you are a beginner you probably should not surf the same spots as the locals until your skill level improves. You will most likely just get in their way and give your self and the locals a bad experience.

2. When you are ready to surf with them just try to be nice and give them respect. You will find that most of the locals are regular guys and gals who when treated nicely, and with respect will respond in the same way (Yes, I know their are exceptions).

3. Do not show up with a big crowd of people to the local hot spot. The locals will not be happy with you, and you will most likely get a negative vibe at the least.

4.If their are several surfers on a peak and you and your friends show up to go surfing. It is usually better to paddle out down the beach and wait for the crowd to thin. Let them have the peak that they were on first, and do not invade them.

5. Get to know the locals and you may gain a friend and a surfing buddy! They are not all bad!

6. Well I could go on, but I think you get the point! Do to others as you would want them to do to you!


6. Know how to catch a wave.

Well to start with, in the white water (already broken waves) you will want to catch your first few waves in a prone position (laying down). You can point your board toward the beach and when the white water hits you jump on the board prone and ride it in toward the shore laying down practicing turning a little. After you get that down you can practice paddling to catch the wave. To paddle you need to dig down deep and really try to stay smooth and keep the board in a planing position. Do not be to far back on the board as you will push water. This is harder and you now should know how to get up on your board now. See #7.

7. How to stand up on your surfboard.

Before going to the beach practice doing pop ups. Lay down on the floor with your hands near your chest but not so wide, like a push up. Your board is only so wide and you want to be able to push off your board to get up to your feet in one smooth motion. Practice going from laying down to popping up to your feet and turning side ways in a surfers stance. Jump back down to a prone position and try to repeat until you can do like 20 of these pop ups without stopping. Remember it will be harder in the ocean because you will be moving and the water is moving, your board is not as stable as the floor, and things are more difficult while sliding down the face of a wave. You do not want to go to your knees this is a bad habit and makes things much more difficult. You will make your first experience surfing much better if you get this down before you ever enter the water! Remember stay off your knees

8. Know how to make it outside (beyond the breaking waves into the green water).

Look for a channel, or a spot that the waves do not seem to break in, and maybe the water is murkier and deeper. Hey that sounds like a rip current. Don't I want to stay away from those? If they make you uncomfortable, yes by all means stay away from them. Do experienced surfers use the rips, and channels to get out into the line up? Yes surfers do work with the ocean and do use rips, and channels to get out into the line up easier, and quicker. When you work with the ocean the rip can help you to get out beyond the breaking waves easier. It is still important that you remember your limits. Did you check the surf report? Do you know how big the swell is? Are you in good enough shape to handle the current conditions and swell size? All important factors to think about. With a longboard it can be difficult to make it outside if their is a lot of white water to battle, and without a channel or a rip to help you. You can paddle at the white water and before it hits you slide off your board and turn your board over holding on to the rails, and pulling the board downward as the wave sweeps over you. You will need to turn your board back over quickly and start paddling before the next wave or white water hits you. With perseverance you can make it outside depending on how big of a day it is and how much white water you have to deal with, and how strong and determined you are. This is called turning turtle. Short boarders can duck dive, but this is a beginners article, so we are not going there.

9. Know some of the rules of the line up.

1. The #1 rule in surfing is the surfer closest to the curl has priority. If you are on the shoulder of the wave and someone else is deeper (closer to where the wave is starting to break), they have priority. Always look before you take off on the wave. Beginners are notorious for just paddling into anything unaware that someone else has the wave already, and has priority. I try to stay away from beginners for this reason. I do not want to get in a collision with anyone while I am surfing. I just figure they will learn. Sometimes that means they may get into a collision, or get yelled at, or at the worst get into a fight. I think it's better to know the rules before any of this happens.

2. When you are paddling back out it is your responsibility to stay out of the surfers way who are riding the waves. That may mean you have to paddle wide of the take off area and then back into the take off position.You do not want be in anybody's way. If you do find yourself in a surfers way who is riding a wave pick a direction and continue to go that way as changing directions at the last second I think makes it hard on the surfer riding the wave to steer around you! The surfer riding the wave also has to be the one to prevent the collision because they can turn to avoid you if they are already up and riding, but sometimes that means you will be wrecking their wave that they may have been waiting for. Anyway they will not be happy. If this happens to you try to apologise, and paddle wide the next time.

3. Don't be a wave hog! If you just caught a wave and then you paddle back outside deeper than everyone else so you are now in position to have priority and you keep doing this over and over the other surfers will not be happy with you! It is better to give a wave than always take a wave. Yes I understand that sometimes beginners do not paddle into the take off spot, and therefore never really get any waves. The better surfers usually get more waves because they know where to go and have the ability to take off in the critical part of the wave. As you get better you will learn where you want to be, and catch more waves, and hopefully give a few waves to a beginner. Beginners should try to find a spot where there are not a lot of other people out, so they can catch lots of waves, and learn to surf faster and have more fun without the negative vibe!

10.Have fun surfing is a blast!

Do not get discouraged or expect to much of yourself to early. Surfing takes a while to get any good at, but is still fun while you are learning! Try to have fun and enjoy yourself.

There is no other sport like surfing! I hope this article helps to make your first surfing experience a great one! I was so stoked the fist time I went surfing, and I hope you too will share in that stoke!

Author Tony G. started surfing at 12 years of age, and was hooked after his first surfing session. Tony has been surfing the Central Oregon Coast for over 30 years! He also owns and manages Safari Town Surf Shop in Lincoln City, Oregon. It is a small family owned and operated Surf & Skate Shop Established in 1989. Visit us for all your surfing and skateboarding needs @ http://safaritownsurf.com

[zandvoortsurfertje]

Thank you very much, very detailed information, i think this will help a lot of beginners

[jconway2002]

good stuff, thanks!

[Hal]

Even knowing all of these pointers it's still pretty hard just to get the feel of things. This is my second season and I'm still pretty terrible. Good rules to know though...

[jaffa1949]

Don't worry Hal you'll be improving steadily,but there will still be profound moments of terrible
I still have some after 50 years double

Edited after reading Tony's post; Thanks for reminding me, Tony the whole trip is fun if you let it be fun!
Best surfer = the one having the most fun

[tony g]

It is true, surfing is difficult to get any good at. It is really fun learning though! I started playing the guitar later in life and it is really hard for me, but it is still fun when I learn a new song. I know I can get better, but do I want to put the time in? I think if you really want to get good at surfing and are willing to put some serious time into it, you will get better. You may never be a pro, but you can get better with hard work and determination. Surfing is also fun for beginners. I was stoked as a 12 year old kid learning to surf even though I was not very good. Hang in there!

[Wave4Surf]

Very good information
Especially point 9 helped me... XD

[sarahcoles]

Thanks for the information mate. Will really be helpful

[ChrisSD]

Wow, there is a wealth of information here. Thank you so much for taking the time to write this post!

[Liquid Peace]

Good info, perhaps omitted is wave selection. Picking the best waves is crucial to maximize fun.

[LaraB]

thanks for the list! this is honestly the kind of thing I really need as a beginner! I actually tried to see if there was a 'surfing for dummies' book the other day, there wasn't. Someone should write one! I'd buy it!

[jaffa1949]

LaraB why not chronicle your learning as you go, write the book become the J K Rowling of surf, there are quite a few books around but usually an experienced surfer telling how and often they have forgotten the things that a beginner need to know.
If you are in the USA the is a book called Kook available,it's more about the experience not the skills.
The strange thing about surfing is it really is hands and feet on thing, you only get the experience by having the experience and the skills come by repetition of doing, much of what you have to do is counter intuitive until you overcome that natural response.
That last sentence says it all, but unless you are on a board in the water it, like most surf writing, is pretty nonsensical

The list is helpful so is the FAQ and some of the answers


FUN

[LaraB]

thanks, yeah I'd much prefer just to get out there for a few months and learn it through experience! want to save up and do that! but i'll definitely keep a diary as i go, wouldn't mind being the JK Rowling of surfing at all!

[Thiscover]

Very very good advice and detailed. Thanks!

[eddyjas]

Enjoyment comes when someone able to catch waves along with the good environment conditions and here a good description is described about surfing lessons.

[surf patrol]

something tells me that English is not your first language eddyjas.

[AndyBeach]

Good stuff, surfing is one of those things that takes a long time to get good at, I think that is part of the enjoyment - trying to master something difficult.

[CraigJephta]

ive never surfed yet but now im really excited to surf because i see that its so much fun

[surf patrol]

HI CraigJephta, welcome to Surfing Waves!
The only way to experience it is to get out there. What are you waiting for?

[surf patrol]

Great list! One that I would like to add is getting shape. It looks easy to just paddle out there but we all know it gets tiring after dodging and duck diving under the waves. Doing basic exercises such as pushups and sit ups helps build your core up a bit. And for cardio, jogging once in a while is beneficial.

I found more surfing tip on this article here:
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