Surfing Waves

Okay, so I just started to surf about a month and a bit ago. I have been out a total 5 times. I have an NSP 7'2'' Funboard, I am 87lbs and 4'10'' in height. I try to get out every week, but I don't live near a decent break, the closest being 20mins away. I have trouble trying to get my parents to take me, or my friends parents. (I always surf with my friend.) I'm 13.

Anyway, so far I have caught a grand total of about 6 unbroken waves. 5 of them were caught when I went out and it was 2.5ft and really clean. 1 was caught today in 2.5ft of alright waves. I mostly stay in the whitewater. I can sometimes catch really nice long waves, but mostly I wipeout pretty quickly. My friend taught me to surf, and the way she told me to get up was to slide onto my knees, then stand up. I know now that this is a really bad habit, and I can now do a proper popup on dry land. I am finding it incredibly hard to popup in the water though. When I am on my knees I wobble lots and find it hard to stand up at times. Do you have any advice for this? Also, I am surfing once a week, maybe less, because I have lots of other stuff on; I dance 3 times a week, I have 2 orchestra's, I have 2 different music lessons, I have 3 different hockey clubs including county, and I have school. Do you think I am progressing averagely? What can I do to improve my surfing quickly? Am I learning on the right board? Do you think I am at a good age to start?

Thank you

Dear Cornishsurfer,
Everything sounds perfectly fine: age, weight, board length, surfing progress, other activities, etc. You have also produced a post that uses proper grammer and spelling that far too many Uni students fail to use when asking similar questions. All in all, you sound like a very well-together teenager.

I learned to surf on a 1-day per week schedule at age 47. At that age, I'd long lost all the fitness that you possess in your little finger. As an adult-learner, I always wished I learned to surf when I was a kid because that is when most things physical are easiest to learn. So, you have that benefit as well.

Your surfing progress is within the average catagory. So, keep the stoke! The wobble you experience is one of the key problems for a beginner. You'd experience less wobble with a longer board (say 8 1/2 ft) or waves that have a little more power in them. I wouldn't bother to get a longer board due to your relatively low weight. But, you might be able to find more powerful waves. They'll push the board harder and make it more stable. But, you'll also have to pop up faster and correctly.

Yes, you should break the knee habit and make a habit of going straight to your feet. I see many women do it with ease, so anyone should be able to do it. Do 2 types of exercises on land to help: 1) push ups (real ones, not the ones on your knees), and 2) squat thrust (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpDRwxR6jHI or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Squat_thrust). These will help a tremendous amount. You must also ride enough broken waves (white water) so that it becomes instinct to paddle hard, place hands on board, and pop up (no knee). I'll have people I teach to surf do this all day long for 5 to 6 outings. Then when they ride green waves their body knows what to do without thinking about it. Your ultimate goals are 1) to stop wobbling, and 2) catch & stand on green waves every time you want to.

Off-topic: what instruments do you play?

billie
Santa Barbara

Thank you so much, your reply was extremely helpful and has put me at ease.
The instruments I play: Piano (Grade6) & Violin(Grade5)

I am finding it incredibly hard to popup in the water though. When I am on my knees I wobble lots and find it hard to stand up at times.

Never use your knees again. And it will be easier to pop up in unbroken waves since you'll be facing down when taking off and mother gravity will help a little.

You should focus on push ups and developing the muscles needed, strength is crucial in surfing. You'll be fine soon

Dear cornishsurfer,
You are welcome.
Now that we know, all the guys and gals here on the forum are expecting a video recital in which you play both the piano and violin while on the beach. Bonus seaweed for you if you play these instruments simultaneoulsy.
best regards and keep the stoke,
billie
Santa Barbara