by garbarrage » Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:44 am
Ditto the above, and add that patience is the key. Very hard to be patient when you are frothing for a wave but you waste a lot of time when you're learning paddling for waves you have no hope of making, which will leave you out of position when a decent makeable wave comes.
Patience is also the key when looking for somewhere to surf. Ideally you want somewhere quiet. Pick a break that might not be as good as the crowded spots but still has a wave that will allow you time to drop and get a bottom turn in. On a beach there are usually unsurfed peaks somewhere. If you start making waves others will come but usually not before the herd see someone catching.
If you can't find anywhere like this and have tried everywhere on a given day, get in anyway (but don't get in the way), paddle loads. Building up your paddle fitness will help you catch waves sooner and make your take off easier. Don't walk your board around, paddle it everywhere. You should get out of the water when you have nothing left every time. If you get out and feel you could have had a few more waves in you. Grab a bite, relax for an hour or so and get back in.
When it comes to actually catching a waves. Carefully select a wave you can make (you will get better at this), as it approaches give a couple of light strokes to get you moving, then paddle as hard as you can with your whole body behind every stroke (being careful not to rock your board too much, this will lose you speed). Keep your back arched to avoid pearling unless you feel the wave us about to pass under you, in which case drop your head to get more weight on the front of the board (but get ready to lift it again quickly if the nose starts to dip). Keep watching the wave until the last possible second and make adjustments accordingly. The last adjustment being to point the board a couple of degrees in the direction you want to go. Lastly, pop up in one fluid movement.
Sitting on your board gets easier the more you do it no matter what size board you're on, but what size board are you on?