Surfing Waves

I've been surfing probably since I was 13 on and off, but always find myself getting back into surfing again. It just seems like every time I get back into it again I get anxious when it's a big day.

Well for starters I've always have had problems with heights but if I stood near a ledge long enough I'd be fine with it. My problem is seeing a big set in the distance or even going out on big days and trying to fight with those monsters. I just wanted to know how you deal with charging waves you're not use to.

I find myself always going for them but at the last second back off because it looks like a vertical drop to me. It sucks! Then I go home all pissed off that I didn't even go for them

Look at it this way.....

Think of all the sacrifices you have made to be on the right break, in the right place, at the right time. Think of how p***ed your girlfriend is that you ditched her for surfing, or how you're probably going to lose your job cos you've gone on the hop to be there.

After taking all this into consideration as you see a big set coming in on the horizon, think to yourself what an absolute sin it will be if you don't "go"!
No easy fix to this one mate, the only way to get used to surfing big waves is to get used to wiping-out on big waves. If you can't take one on the head you probably shouldn't be out there when it's that big.

Get into downhill skateboarding. If you can do a big hill a big wave is much less intimidating.

Kaaimans wrote:Get into downhill skateboarding. If you can do a big hill a big wave is much less intimidating.

Depends on how big the wave. In skateboarding the hill doesn't run you down if you fall off!

Easy, find another beach on big days. When I was learning I knew that if one beach was huge on a NW swell there was another that did not pick up the swell, so I would go there for chest high surf. Learn your surf spots, use their disadvantages to your advantage

^^ Good call!! Still do that myself when it gets too big. Always a little protected nook or cranny in the coastline that doesn't take the full force. Also worth throwing an eye on these places when it's not so big and the swell is coming from the right direction for them. Often score a break to myself by doing just that.

There is only one real answer to this one. Take off on a epic wave, and make it. The adrenalin will fuel your session.