by billie_morini » Sun Sep 05, 2010 7:21 pm
turadek96,
When my wife and I learned to surf, we could only go one time per week due to employment and the distance to the beach from our inland home. We were well into our 40's. We'd go out and ride the white water all day long -- catch a wave, ride in, go out and get another. We did this for 2 to 3 months. This did several things for us. It built muscles, developed timing, helped us become accustomed to feeling and working with currents. When you can only surf one time per week, development is slower. But, you'll eventually advance to catching unbroken waves. After we could surf, we began taking surfing vacations. Sometimes, I'd go on surf safaris with another male buddy or two without my wife. After a couple of years of this, we relocated to a coastal town. Until you can do the same, plan on long days to make the most of the time when you do go surfing. This includes riding white water over and over and over and developing the muscles and timing to stand up. Do this and you'll find when you go out for green waves, you will instinctively know what to do without thinking.