by m » Fri Sep 03, 2004 2:00 am
hey im 5'7 and 114 pounds (guy) and used to have trouble ducking waves. if you're boards thick, then at our weight, you're pretty much screwed. if its normal or thinner though, its all about timing and either using you're knee to knock the back end down or you're foot. then when you're under, sort of pull up on the nose and hold on tight, and the wave should shoot you out the back of it.
cal surfer- i used to have a lot of trouble ducking the white when the surf got over 8 feet. ducking big waves is ALL about timing. time it early and the white will suck you back over. time it late and the front end of the white will get a hold of you. you have to get under just long enough for the wave to get a hold of you and your board and shoot you out the back of it. try using you're foot to get deeper instead of you're knee. you'll still get rocked everyonce and a while, but just work on your timing and it'll work most of the time.