Surfing Waves

Instead of starting off of "where I'm at" or " how im not a beginner" I'm just gonna get to the question.

When there's a good swell, I take out my 9' squash tail to surf. This is the only board I own. The waves get to about shoulder to overhead high, and if I dont make it to the line up before the next set comes through I usually have to turtle roll these white washes and incoming broken waves.

What do you do when the wave is at 10' and you're not super close to where its about to break but you wont make it to paddle past the wave. If you paddle any further it'll slam on you, or if u just stand the white water is big enough to gobble u up. Whats the best way to this?

Thanks in advanced. Surfing in San Diego, California.

makeshift wrote:What do you do when the wave is at 10' and you're not super close to where its about to break but you wont make it to paddle past the wave....

Laugh nervously and take a good deep breath.

Duck dive that sucker if you are superman, otherwise a roll 'usually' gets you out of the trouble.

I had been thrown over the falls once when I rolled, it was an interesting experience....

Where are you based in San Diego?

A bunch of s loggers usually get together for DPing almost everyday somewhere in SD. so if you wanna come along for a sess, let us know.

thanks for the replies. the answer is GET POUNDED then.

But in SD I'm in Scripps Ranch.
it would be rad for to dawn patrol it and go for good nose ride sessions.

Cool! Come and take a look at

http://www.surfingsandiego.com/forum/default.asp?C=2

We post session reports and get togethers.