Surfing Waves

Hi all,

Just found these forums last night.....an invaluable resource for new guys like me.

A couple of months ago me and the wife went camping down in Cornwall and had a day at Perranporth beach, i hired a foamy and had the most amazing time, at 45yrs old i couldnt believe i could have so much fun in the sea

The sad thing is i live on the North Devon coast and cant believe i havent given it a go before

Anyway i have managed to borrow a 8"4 minimal and a wetsuit and have been going down to Saunton and attempting to ride the small (thank god) waves, the feeling of standing up.... i feel 16 again.

Now winter is coming are there any vital bits of equipment i need?
Also is there anyone who can give an old man (45yrs, 5"8ft, 11.5-12st) some pointers?

thanks again for friendly and informative forums.

Regards

Simon

There's no rush quite yet but come November the sea temp starts to drop down. Your going to need boots and gloves by January. Depends how much you feel the cold.

The new range of winter wetsuits are out. Best thing is to try them on for a good fit (no bagging or loose areas or you'll feel it come winter. have yourself a squizz around Braunton/Combe and croyde plenty of stores there and most of em have staff who now their stuff. Hunt around might findyourself a good deal on one of last years or something.

nOm wrote:Hi all,
The sad thing is i live on the North Devon coast and cant believe i havent given it a go before
...
Also is there anyone who can give an old man (45yrs, 5"8ft, 11.5-12st) some pointers?

You give me your address so I can crash at your place for free and I'll tell you all you need to know (as someone who re-started at age 48) about the pleasure and pain of winter surfing as a beginner.
No? Ah well here's a small sample of my take on late starters.
Just get out as much as you can, take pleasure in every time you stand up or ride longer, or demonstrate more control. Never forget your first green face ride. Never compare yourselves to others, especially those 20 some-things that never seem to tire. Prepare your missus (if you have one) for your irrational addictive behaviour. Consider surf boards like specialist cars so you can always justify the price you paid. Ignore all the pillocks that say 'mmm mid life crisis' and do it for the stoke you get. Always carry brufen and paracetamol so you can stay out an hour longer. If its too big to get out back, just ride the reforms and still have fun. If its just too big, get some binoculars and watch others, you can still get a buzz.

Oh yeah, buy season tickets to the car parks.

Amen to above...

also would add... get a nice long-board you will progress faster and probably enjoy yourself more.
don't look for any of the million surf toys that claim to help you ...keep it simple...a good suit, rash vest for a bit of extra warmth, gloves and boots...a board of any description as long as it features the word floaty. a good leash and your set ! winter surfing is all about mindset, once you have committed to doing it you will realise its never actually "THAT " cold...i was out in the snow early this year and had one of my best sesh's

have funn

Phill

cheers for the replies guys

Your aboutmy height & weight, I started on a borrowed 9'2", bought an 8fter, then 6 months later bought a 9'1".

Big difference between the 8 and 9 footers.

Now just bought a 9'6" cruiser singlefin, pretty ace log...

Just keep at it regular, get out back and catching clean waves asap, and popup smooth and easy and EARLY.

If the surf report ever says its 2foot and glassy - go - immediately – no hesitation – go -go go gogoggogogogo !
This is an awesome size to learn in.

esonscar wrote:If the surf report ever says its 2foot and glassy - go - immediately – no hesitation – go -go go gogoggogogogo !
This is an awesome size to learn in.

Unfortunately, this will only be 2 or 3 times a year

tree4 wrote:

esonscar wrote:If the surf report ever says its 2foot and glassy - go - immediately – no hesitation – go -go go gogoggogogogo !
This is an awesome size to learn in.

Unfortunately, this will only be 2 or 3 times a year

I used to live in my van (I did have a room rented at a friends house, hardly saw it !) - I’d travel back and forth to work straight from the beach AND 'phone Surf Line from the telephone box lunch times AND go surfing if the surf was up so I can honestly say glassy happens a lot if you are at the surf breaks all the time.

I traveled over eighty miles a day or thereabouts if the daylight allowed!

I have seen each and every one of my local breaks as good as anywhere in the photos on the web - one beach was transformed for just two days in anyone’s living memory that I know of into the best break I have ever surfed in Europe – it was beyond peak perfection !

So yeah, get there as often as you can – if you can let it become a way of life you will be a richer person for it.

guys i have seriously got the bug.....eating, thinking and sleeping surfing at the moment....my wife keeps looking out the corner of her eye and i know she's thinking 'who is this wa*ker i married' !!!!!!