I'm an intermediate and I haven't surfed ina couple of months. I was surfing and paddled into a wave, then popped up and the next minute my nose was under and I'm turfed in the pit getting the spin cycle on a nice double head height wave in the middle of a set, when I come up I'm caught inside. How nice!
Anyway, what am I doing wrong, I think I might be doing too much paddling into the wave and not giving enough time to get up... so any thoughts?