Scaling the whitewash...how?

Hey guys, sometimes I see some of those surfers who are really killing it out there, literally surfing up the broken whitewash and making it to the clean section of the wave's face. It seems like a combination of a floater, but they're riding the force of a breaking wave's face which I thought would knock you down. Yeah, I can't really explain it, but hopefully someone will know what I'm talking about haha.
How do you do this, so your nose doesn't go under from the wave crashing down on it?

How do you do this, so your nose doesn't go under from the wave crashing down on it?