Surfing Waves

So I'm a beginner and pretty terrible. I started on a 9'6" longboard, since it's supposed to be easier to catch waves, but somedays I'll paddle my ass off at a wave I know I should be able to catch and I miss it. Then I'll look over at some dude on a shorter board, and he'll paddle twice and he's off to the races. WTF?! How do people do that?!

knowledge of positioning. after a while you know exactly where you need to be to take off. most of the time it will take me 2 or 3 strokes to catch a wave. if i'm on a shortboard, maybe a few leg kicks added in. it just takes time and experience. watch the sets, when you see a wave coming, paddle to where you think or know it should start to break. wait for it to come, turn, paddle, ride. i dunno, it just kind of comes naturally now? also, with the longboard, you may be too far back on the board. you want to be as far forward without pearling.

To catch a wave.

Wave comes at you – look at it – it has to be just past breaking for you to catch it – turn the board to face the shore – look over shoulder at wave – if it looks like it’s gonna break on you go for it, but like this :-

Paddle.
Paddle.
Paddle.
Paddle.
Paddle.
Paddle.
end of ride.

Paddle back out.

Repeat.

When you can catch nearly every wave you can paddle for, then try to stand.

Enjoy

Three "tricks" to get you going better:

1) If you have sidebites, take them off. You only need them in bigger surf to hold on a wave, will give you more glide.

2) Your board needs to be flat, so re-examine your position on the board: best way is to paddle (not for a wave, just paddle), then move up (or down, but most begginers are too far back). Paddle again. Does it glide better, worse? Make adjustments until you feel the board glide, that means you are on the sweet spot for paddling.

3) Close your finger, scoop down not out. Think of a professional swimmer, they dig in their hand flat and scoop down, not out. Paddling out means you are using your shoulder and hands to paddle, so you don't get any power. Plow down, scoop the water back to push forward.

Quick fixes. However, nothing compares to practice practice practice, repeat repeat repeat...

twerked wrote:knowledge of positioning.

Yep, it's how that dude on the shorter board is doing it.