Surfing Waves

1. How much harder is it to paddle on a 6'9'' shortboard than on a longboard? Cause I'm having trouble paddling fast enough to catch these fast breaking waves... Also in what other ways is a longboard easier to ride besides the stability?

2. If the top of the wave is already breaking right when I stand up am I too late? Cause from what I've seen people ride the waves before the white starts to show.

3. If I'm trying to ride along a wave instead of directly toward the shore, how am I suppose to do it if the wave breaks at many different locations each about 15 yards apart. Which mean that the longest I can ride is 15 yards before I hit the whitewash right?

1 - theres a huge difference between a 6'9 shortboard vs longboard paddling. Im not sure a longboard is easier to ride i cant ride em worth a damn

2 - yes that would be a late drop. Having the crest dump on your back during takeoff makes it very very tricky and if the waves are big down right brutal.

3 - depending on the size of the section you can just go around it and connect on the other side - speed is everything. If not find a better beach

0wnerer wrote:1. How much harder is it to paddle on a 6'9'' shortboard than on a longboard? Cause I'm having trouble paddling fast enough to catch these fast breaking waves... Also in what other ways is a longboard easier to ride besides the stability?

2. If the top of the wave is already breaking right when I stand up am I too late? Cause from what I've seen people ride the waves before the white starts to show.

3. If I'm trying to ride along a wave instead of directly toward the shore, how am I suppose to do it if the wave breaks at many different locations each about 15 yards apart. Which mean that the longest I can ride is 15 yards before I hit the whitewash right?

1. HUGE difference between the two. I noticed a massive difference between 9ft and 8ft boards. Not only in float but on a shortboard you need to take off on the wave later etc, also paddling out is totaly different tactics.

2. No not to late at all but you do need to be on your feet to be in control, you just surf out of the whitewater onto the clean face if you can. Obvioiously if its a heavy wave you may not make it lol..

3. As said ride round the sections, if the wave is a total closeou its a crap wave, surf some other time, place etc.

0wnerer wrote:1. How much harder is it to paddle on a 6'9'' shortboard than on a longboard? Cause I'm having trouble paddling fast enough to catch these fast breaking waves... Also in what other ways is a longboard easier to ride besides the stability?

2. If the top of the wave is already breaking right when I stand up am I too late? Cause from what I've seen people ride the waves before the white starts to show.

3. If I'm trying to ride along a wave instead of directly toward the shore, how am I suppose to do it if the wave breaks at many different locations each about 15 yards apart. Which mean that the longest I can ride is 15 yards before I hit the whitewash right?

1) Besides stability, they glide more and pic up waves easier.

2) Depends on the wave, a hollow one will pitch you over, but a nice peeler won't. Also, depends where you are and what direction your board is pointed. However, if this is happening to you you are having timing issues, you are supposed to catch the wave right before it breaks not after.

3) Not all waves are perfect, many a day the waves are closed out, crumbly, choppy, only once in a while are conditions perfect. Enjoy what you can, when I get hollow walls I have fun dropping in and cutting into the wall, or when the wave crubles ahead you can just fall off, or first do a cutback off the whitewash then fall off. I have had many good times in 3 seconds worth of surf...