Surfing Waves

i broke my board.. so i wasnt able to go surf for about 3 weeks..
i borrowed my friend's board today for about 30 min because we only had one surfboard between ourselves
I was wondering what i am doing wrong.. how do i come out of it and ride away?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zx13h6jkj_g

Well your knees are bent nicely (common mistake is straight knees) but your weight is pushing too much towards the back and your front foot is too light on the board.
Allowing the nose to go up and down all the time and nose to swing around.

I think im a fairly front footed surfer and havent really been a back footed surfer howver i think you should balance out the proportion of weight on you feet aswell as lean more forward.
if you lean more into where you are going things will go better.

its possible your back foot is too far behind the back fin instead of a bit forward.
The more back it is the sharper you can turn (more loose the board is) but less stable a little more forward more stable and more drive.

Your stance is a little wide aswell, perhaps if you
-move your back foot a little forward, front a little back,
-Lean more forward especially after bottom turn (the part where you start to lose balance in vid)
-more pressure on front foot.
For now try to level out the weight distribution a bit.

You will get it soon enough your almost there.

One other thing at the end you lost total control as your body was not centred above the stringer.
Your body needs to be centred above the stringer through turns etc.

After a while it will all happen without you even knowing what your doing.

surfings improved loads since you started posting vids, good to see. try to get more weight on the front foot although the turn was ok until you bogged a rail at the end. good going, almost there

gutterball wrote:Well your knees are bent nicely (common mistake is straight knees) but your weight is pushing too much towards the back and your front foot is too light on the board.
Allowing the nose to go up and down all the time and nose to swing around.

hmm.. thanks a lot.. ill try my best next time to remember your advice im out in the water
the wide stance might be because i usually ride a 5'11 but that was a 6'7 (although that would mean i should have a narrower stance) haha.. maybe in my head i over compensated

as for the nose going up and down.. that was my attempt at pumping
haha.. any advice on how to do it properly?

looking much better there. As others have said it looks like you are weighted too much on the back foot.

as far as pumping goes hitting the water just makes a splash and doesnt do much good. Think more of pumping as moving up and down the wave rather than slapping the water. These movement are not elongated but short burts continuously.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUZ8o5pmk4M

should provide further insight

ahhh.. ok.. that explains it.. haha.. very helpful link.. thanks

I've seen that you improved once again! On your cutback, I learned to look over my shoulder and your board will naturally follow. Looking good with the pop ups, I gotta fix my board as well haha.

What are you doing wrong?

Nothing mate, looks like you're doing fine to me.
The advice above is all good, but you're improving so quickly that it wont be long before you're telling us how to do it.

haha thanks.. i wouldnt have been able to it without your help
and ill try the look over the shoulder thing next time.. i think the hardest thing is to remember everything while on a wave
hopefully i can go for a more sharper cutback