vdeub wrote:Btw, i am surfing Ocean Beach in San Francisco ... if anyone knows the spot ...
I know of what you speak... I live on Great Hwy. It does take a while to get the spot worked out.
At a place like OB, with it's 1/4 mile paddle outs, endless walls of concrete whitewater, etc, you have the "too small to paddle well, too big to duck dive" problem.
On small days it doesn't matter, you can use any board you want. On sizable days I either use something that paddles well, 9 ft or bit bigger, or something 6 ft or below that I can duck dive extremely well.
During the big winter swells I exclusively ride big, gunny boards. Speed and guile, turtle rolls, and the occaisional bail out do the trick. There are some awesome surfers here who can consistantly ride the DOH+ waves on smaller boards but I'm not one of them.
I should add, you're not alone in feeling challenged by the conditions. I can't count the number of people who have come for a visit and tried the paddle out, only to swear off OB for life. Many of them very experienced.