Surfing Waves

Today i had a major breakthrough.
As i arrived to the beach the waves were breaking hard. (About a little bit OH).
After a lot of struggling i caught one and went blazing down the face... i grabbed the rail and rode on the wave´s face until it was going to break on me so i threw myself backwards towards the breaking face.

WOW. It was a thrill. It was a ultra short ride but i was glad i had had the balls to try riding a big wave like that and proud that i had had the skill to ride it down.

Then it passed like an hour when i couldnt catch anything and i was struggling against the current and the big waves breaking on me.
I started to become frustrated as i had been over the last couple of weeks because of being stuck on my learning process.

I stuck a little bit longer and caught two waves where i fell off. On the second one it was pretty funny cause i was riding backside on a steep wave face when it broke and the lip hit me cleanly on my feet sweeping me off the board sending me flying over the air while the board remained on the wave.

Finally the best part of the day was when i caught this shoulder on a wave about chest high. Made the drop easily and rode the wave´s face all the way to the shore. I had never had a ride that long ever. And i wasnt riding white wash either it was a clean wave.
I was kind of crouched down when i caught it and i had to straighten out those legs in order to keep on the wave´s face. I balanced to the front of my board and kept on triming on the waves face to speed up and not loose the wave. When i finally jumped off i was on knee high water.

I tought that it had been just a lucky shot. But then i caught another one just like it, except it was a little bit bigger and i caught it right from the peak. Going down the face was easy and i rode this one standing up right from the start, not crouching down like on the previous wave. But again i rode it until shore.

I was stoked! And the timing was just right on because i had been pretty much frustrated over the last couple of days.

Just wanted to share with you guys.

Congrats! Must be stoked

Some guys say, "It only takes one wave to change the day." I always like to have two so that I know it wasn't simply my dumb luck.

billie_morini wrote:Some guys say, "It only takes one wave to change the day." I always like to have two so that I know it wasn't simply my dumb luck.

yep you only need one wave to show how fun surfing is.

WOOT!

You're Stoked, mate.

It was knee to thigh high here, but clean. A very pleasant longboard session indeed. Damn I love surfing

Great to hear your stoke report

It was windy & messy over here this morning but I went out for 2 hours anyway, surfing feels good afterward even when it's been crap

Pornstar ... where are you surfing in Mazatlan? Of the dozen or so cities I have visited, Mazatlan is my favorite city in Mexico. Although when I went, I did not surf. Is there any surfing along the malecon?

grand stuff..

job well done mate.

AWESOME

The ronin:
Well there are three breaks on the malecon.
One Jacarandas a nice right that gets you barreled every once and then.
2 pinos a point break that sucks.
3 Olas Altas a Point break that is kind of sketchy but sometimes has its good days.

Another break just in front of bora bora a lame gutless left.

Then there is a nice break where at the docks. Nice strong barrels when the swell is right.

A beachbreak calledIsal de la Piedra.
Another beachbreak up north called Playa Bruja, that's where i surf the most.

Up north from Mazatlan we have sevral nice spots beachbreaks and pointbreaks. There you can find Patole which is the best of all of them where in the good days you can find world class waves.
Marmol, Shelby, Las Labradas, are some of the nice spots.

Make sure to come in the summertime if you want to go surfing cause here in mazatlan winter sucks big time. While on the summer we get very nice waves specially on hurricane season.
Cheers mate and thanks for the encourangement.

yo man congrats

GZ man.

Thanks for all of your encourangement mates.
The last couple of days have been nice. eventhough good waves seem to be anywhere but here lately. Im still catching waves as good as on that day.
Thank god it wasnt just a fluke.

Ah man ... I stayed right at Olas Altas for a week. I gotta say your sunsets knock me on my ass. Also I have never had such good fried fish than at the palapas just off the malecon. The $1 Pacificos helped too haha. The whole time I was there though I did not see surf ... this was during Christmas time. We did run into a former mayor of yours haha.

Thanks for the tip.