Surfing Waves

I think I've figured out that no matter what, I will always get totally exhausted surfing. Something about all the fun makes me push it to the limits so that I am gasping for air half the time and my arms feel like they're going to fall off. My conditioning has improved greatly, and I am now able to get out into rough, overhead conditions and have fun. But even on smaller days I find that I go harder now, get more waves, paddle more to reposition myself where its breaking, etc. So as I get better arms and wind, I do more, in bigger swells.

And its always gonna be that way. I'm never gonna go out there and have it be easy. Maybe if its like 2 feet.

I dunno if this is good or bad, just the way it is.

yep, the post surf Mong... ahhhhhhhhhhh

The during surf exhaustion after paddling back outside, after fighting the monster current, after each wave, each time I get washed.

Today I was so tired after getting just 2 waves in 1.5 hours and fighting the current, I almost got washed under the pier.

get the same even when i don't feel like i'm pushing it...

getting caught in the wrong spot and fighting an incoming set is gonna take it out of anyone... well if ya can't duckdive properly!!!

not much use to anyone after a few hours surfing.... much to my girlfriend's annoyance!

There's no feeling like sitting with an ice cold beer on a warm summer's evening, so tired that you can barely lift the beer to your lips because you've been surfing all day

drowningbitbybit wrote:There's no feeling like sitting with an ice cold beer on a warm summer's evening, so tired that you can barely lift the beer to your lips because you've been surfing all day

But the beer taste soooooo good, feels like a bottle of elixir.

drowningbitbybit wrote:There's no feeling like sitting with an ice cold beer on a warm summer's evening, so tired that you can barely lift the beer to your lips because you've been surfing all day

AMEN to that.

LOLRuss wrote:The during surf exhaustion after paddling back outside, after fighting the monster current, after each wave, each time I get washed.

Today I was so tired after getting just 2 waves in 1.5 hours and fighting the current, I almost got washed under the pier.

haha.. yestereday i got washed under and out the pier
i was at huntington on the soutside and there was a CRAZY ass current with overhead waves.. and then a wave came from far and i couldnt make it over and it pushed me right up to the pier support at the breaking zone. I was so tired already from fighting the current so i just decided to go through ..and then a wave rose up and i barely missed a support and i got through after what seemed to be forever .. then i got out of the water and ran away to my local break

When I surf before work I end up in such a daze at the office. It's like I've had a few drinks, I'll also say things I'd normally not say, I'm a little too open and relaxed, if it wasn't Australia I'd probably get a talking to for swearing too much or being too relaxed and talkative.

On weekends I always need a nap or a chill out after a surf. The only time I'm not tired is after evening sessions during the week, they always make me feel really relaxed but focused, I'm more likely to clean my flat or do something productive when coming back after a post work surf at night. Kind of strange that....

drowningbitbybit wrote:There's no feeling like sitting with an ice cold beer on a warm summer's evening, so tired that you can barely lift the beer to your lips because you've been surfing all day

Bloody oath!

You need to eat properly, and well. You need to sleep well too. When people say surfing is a way of life - this is part of what is meant.

When I surfed all the time (I mean all the time !) - I almost lived at the beach. Being jovial when there was no surf, and healthy as hell when there was.

I’d (we’d) get so knackered, we’d go to sleep just after dark and get up at dawn after a good session in the water, or in the pub !

Seriously, if you have surfed often for a good couple of months, you should be finding it easier (though not easy).

Compare yourself now to how you were, and consider how you will be this time next year.

Suddenly it all seems worthwhile again !

HA HA I eat like a friggin horse get shizz loads of sleep before a big surf day and am in pritty damn good shape and I'm totaly wiped at the end of an all day surforama( even with the massive food consumption there and a few lil naps (hey easy now I'm older!!!). For sure I'm one as I got/get better I just do more till the exaution is the same no matter what so HA HA HA no if your the same it won't change!!!! HA HA but that's part of the lifestyle too (hmmmm mabie that's why surfers are considered so layed back.... no energy they are wiped... HA HA ) I to am one to thirst heavy for some bottles of suds after a surf me azz off day!!! So no worries your perfectly O.K.

The evening after a long surf session, I often have trouble staying awake. Add a few beers to the equation and I will often find myself falling asleep behind the TV between 8 and 9. How is that for tired?

After 6 hours in the surf last Saturday, I could barely turn the wheel in my Van for the 3 hour drive home. Getting knackered is what I expect when I invest a whole day trying to improve.

Amen to all. I started back in the water this year at 185 lbs and couldnt get over the break on the first day back in March. I was waxed at 5 minutes of paddling trying to push a 7'6" funboard out. Now I'm at 175, eat more, LIVE more, feel better, go out for hours at a time 3-4 days a week. I push my 9'6" log out in chest to head high (okay so i rest once i am out but...) At 50 I feel better than I have since I was in my 20's I just have less hair. I am so glad I found this sport last year and so glad I moved to where the water is! I am now trying to step down to a 6'4" fish for the fall surf...

But oh yeah...when the day is over I am spent.

As with most things, if you enjoy it, you will do it till you are exhausted! And no I dont think it will ever change, maybe it will take you longer, but I would guess it will just mean more water time!

Gonna start bringing an energy bar with me for the post-surf cravings.

The roughest times I find are when the waves are really firing and you have to roll/dive 3-5 times just to get to the line-up. And when the current is dragging you quickly up the beach.

Exhausted now after going out 3 days in a row. Can't imagine how I'll feel after a week.

Lomax wrote:Gonna start bringing an energy bar with me for the post-surf cravings.

The roughest times I find are when the waves are really firing and you have to roll/dive 3-5 times just to get to the line-up. And when the current is dragging you quickly up the beach.

Exhausted now after going out 3 days in a row. Can't imagine how I'll feel after a week.

Holly cow !

I have to duck dive dozens of times to get outside at my favorite beach break !

The longest time it’s taken me as far as I can recall is 55minutes just to paddle out !.

Getting caught on the inside is very exhausting for begginers, and intermediate surfers. When you get a smaller board that is easier to duckdive you will be able to get out sooner, for now just consider it growing pains.

When I was a newb every winter I experience go-outs where I could not get out at all, just wasn't good enough to do so, so I fought the current for half an hour and gave up, electing to stay on the inside and ride whitewash, and yes I was exhausted. It's just a part of learning...

esonscar wrote:The longest time it’s taken me as far as I can recall is 55minutes just to paddle out !.

dang that some heck of a paddle out.

30 minute is my record.