Head high and up

[Asianmang]

I surf on long island, and its usually around waist high sometimes chest. Most of the time I can handle these. However today, had a nice groundswell, offshore winds, and the waves were huge (for me). They were consistently overhead, around 7-8 ft. I was getting killed.

I am a beginner, couple months, but and i progressed fast, (been into board sports my whole life) my biggest problem, is how do u approach these bigger waves? Do u have more weight on your back foot? How should i change up my feet position? Bend me knees more? etc.

Another big question, this relates to all waves. I see people all the time dropping right into the barrel (at an angle) , and they are already in it, taking it all the way down the line. Whenever i try that I usually get bowled over. I usually approach the wave more straight and then try and bottom turn back into the barrel, but by then its too late. When I pop up should i lean my weight to my turning side? Do i need to paddling differently?

Any help and advice is appreciated. Thanks

Oh im riding a fun board, around 7' 2'' i think, im aobut 5' 6'', 135 lbs,

-A mang

[twerked]

sounds like they were hollow, dredging tubes? there could be a few problems, for starters, is it a foamie, bic, glass board, etc? second, if it was hollow, your takeoffs were probably too late. were you pearling like mad? with a bit longer board you should catch the waves a bit sooner than the guys out on shortboards, but not as far out as the guys with logs. as to the second question. by 'bowled over' what do you mean? smacked in the face with the lip? or just tossed over the falls? again, it could be late takeoffs. or it could just be you're not in the right position to get pitted. for the angle take off, you just angle a bit, or a lot as i've done in extreme circumstances. just turn a little bit to the right or left, depending on the wave. too far and you just get tossed over the falls. put a bit more weight on the inside rail, look where you wanna go. i don't know, it's more of a feel thing than anything else, at least for me

edit: word..another asian in the water

[isaluteyou]

dropping in on bigger waves your weight needs to be more centered as you acceleration and speed will be much greater so you need to be better grounded. This is different for everyone so find a happy medium through trial and error.

As far as dropping into a barrel im assuming they were shortboarders. To achieve this you must take off much deeper and right under the lip which usual means a critical takeoff. Its quite trickey to do that as timing has to be cruicial and your angle must be perfect. A lot of the time your directional change is done mid fall usually grabbing rail and pulling hard is one way to achieve it.

[Asianmang]

yea they were big hollow tubes, best surf i've seen this year, im guessing its a foamie, b/c its super light, i wasn't pearling, i was just getting thrown off my board, yea tossed over the falls, well thanks for help, i just think im getting ahead of myself, figure if i keep at it, all the little things should fall into place

[pkbum]

dropping on big wave is all about experience, thats how i learned to get barreled today in newport. chest-shoulder high clean set. took the late take off and got slotted. felt like orgasm. i m telling u this is x10 better than sex1

[Pornstar]

That has been hapening a lot in my local beachbreak lately.
Nice overhead + barrels. I used to love those days on my bodyboarding days, cause late dropoffs are a piece of cake when you are laying down.
Now i just xxxxx myself at the lineup or when i get caught inside.

I have tried to catch some of those waves but i get hamerred, or i pearl over. but once in every 5 tries i ride it down and it makes my day. Jaja all the good guys get barreled and ride the wave but just making it down the face sketchy and all is super fun for me unfortunately once i reach the bottom i get thrown away or i fall

My only advice is try to get a shoulder not too steep or an already broken part that aint too barreled that may push you. That's what i aim for because thats how i get my longer rides.

Another thing to keep in mind is that your board wasnt intended for that type of waves so next time you dont catch waves or you get thrown over blame it on the board.

[IB_Surfer]

A wider board will catch a rail easier and flip you over. Try crouching down some in the barrel, so that if you do catch a rail you can just bounce or power through it.